Coffee Stop

Woodend, Australia, 2007, Ajr

I have rather a soft spot for the little town of Woodend, one hour north of Melbourne in Australia. I visit there every year to catch up with family. What started out as a small rural service town is now a popular haunt for Melbourne workers who do the one-hour train commute into the city each day. Not surprisingly, cafes and boutique stores have sprung up like mushrooms on a damp day. This is one of my favourites – a bookshop-café combined and I was very excited about getting this early morning window reflection that shows of the very distinctive town clock on the other side of the road.

Roundabout

Rangiora, March 2008, Ajr
Am I mistaken or have the people of Rangiora been a little hysterical in their colour choices? This stately old Town Hall cost 10,850 pounds to build and was opened in 1926. It once housed Rangiora’s library on the ground floor and has since been home to The Rangiora Players, a group of theatrically-inclined locals and the Regent Theatre cinema. As vivid and unmissable as it now is, I think there’s something rather chummy and irreverent about this old beauty. I like it a lot – and it took me five circles of the roundabout before I could stop in the middle of the road to get this photo without irate locals tooting at me.

Small Moments of Beauty

Four Japanese dishes

A gift

To me

Meet the People - 5

Another in the series Meet the People - Ordinary and Extraordinary New Zealanders doing Interesting Things - There can’t be too many New Zealanders who can claim to have hosted over 15,000 house guests – Bruce and Carol Hyland are two who can. As the owners of three top rating NZ B&Bs over the last sixteen years they’ve notched up an enviable record as fantastic hosts and many of their returning guests are now personal friends. They were the original owners of two leading Devonport B&Bs in Auckland and they now run the very delicious Maison de la Mer in Akaroa, an hour from Christchurch. And when they’re not pampering others, they’re usually giving in to their own passion for travel, spending three months of every year exploring France, Italy, Britain, Canada, Australia, USA and Asia. Back in the eighties they spent three years living aboard their sail boat in the Bahamas – complete with three young children and family dog! These days you’ll find Bruce yacht racing every Sunday on Akaroa Harbour. www.maisondelamer.co.nz

Barry's Provocative Unpublished Minutes - 5

"Origami Nightmare"

The provocative printmaker strikes again.

Picture Perfect

Millbrook Resort, Queenstown, 2007, Ajr

Sometimes there is a reflection so perfect it can't be walked past, no matter what. This was one of them - one of the beautiful redwoods at Queenstown's Millbrook Resort in perfect mirror image in the lake water. http://www.millbrook.co.nz/

Homestead History

I gave in to my passion for grand old mansions again yesterday and visited Okuku Country Estate, which is tucked into a tight fist of huge trees – including two massive redwoods – 30 minutes from the country town of Rangiora. Much has changed in the fifteen years since I last visited; for a start, there are new owners – Robert and Lorraine Smith – who have turned it into a gorgeous retreat for visiting guests. And what an idyllic hideaway. Built in 1920 (after the original 1860 homestead burnt down in 1917) and inspired by Italian Renaissance style, it oozes character and ‘friendliness.’ Dark downstairs panelling, a huge entry hall, big social spaces, six big guest bedrooms, an indoor swimming pool and 30 acres of beautiful gardens to wander in make it a very tempting weekend getaway. Back in the old days the Ensor family lived a grand old life hosting parties and hunts – with the aid of Chinese servants, who lived in the west wing of the house. It’s one of those lovely old places that seems to have sealed its history into every corner; it’s almost tangible. Gorgeous! www.okukucountryestate.co.nz

Plains Roaming

I was in my element again today. Armed with car, camera and time, I did the 120km loop from Christchurch to Rangiora, through the pretty autumn-flushed Ashley Gorge to Oxford and then home again. I had all the time in the world to enjoy those ruler-straight roads, the blocky hedges, the table-cloth spread of fields, the big Canterbury skies and strong coffee at Jo Seagar’s popular Oxford Café. It was 26-degrees and rising as I drove back to Christchurch, stopping to take photographs along the way and I couldn’t help thinking that when Canterbury puts on a blue sky it does so on a grand scale.

Small Moments of Beauty

Magnolia Ajr.

My neighbour's magnolia

hangs languidly

over

my fence

Artist Studio - 4

Christchurch fabric artist, Jenny Gillies has lost count of how many costumes she’s created for theatre, opera, the World of Wearable Art Awards, conferences, race days and her now-famous and eagerly-awaited choreographed costume performance staged annually at Christchurch Cathedral.
“I must have done hundreds over the years…..I don’t know really….I live a chaotic lifestyle,” she says with a laugh and a sweep of her hand. “I keep all my flower costumes though. They’re stored around the house. It drives my family crazy.”
The Gillies house is almost entirely given over to creative pursuits. The whole place is one fantastic chorus of colour and the upstairs rooms Jenny has claimed as studio space are my idea of heaven - upright bolts of electric blue, red, green, orange, yellow and pink silks jostle for attention; baskets are filled with colour-co-ordinated cottons, a ‘million’ small containers are filled with a sewer’s essentials and half-completed floral costumes fill every corner – it’s one giant, colourful, exuberant creative den that I could happily spend hours in. www.jennygillies.com

Sometimes..............

a small chocolate truffle is all you need

Bach Beauty

Wikipedia will tell you that a bach (pronounced batch) is the name given to a small, modest New Zealand holiday home, usually located at a beach. The alternative South Island name is a ‘crib.’ But for many New Zealanders a bach is very much more than a simple dwelling; it is a part of growing up, an iconic part of our lifestyle and culture swollen with memory and event – especially from 1950-1970. You don’t find so many truly humble baches these days – the ones made out of recycled materials and furnished with cast-off curtains and old chairs. They’ve been superceded by trendy new holiday homes with hot and cold running everything. I found these ones at Boulder Bay, a stony little horseshoe with less than a dozen baches in total, just around the coast from Christchurch. There’s no road access; you either walk the coastal track from Taylor’s Mistake Beach, or you descend the steep, narrow track from Godley Head.

Barry's Provocative Unpublished Minutes - 4

'Mr Boojum has a Dream about William Morris'

This is what happens when pets are introduced to fine art.

Cool Cars

Kaiapoi, March 2008, Ajr
One Thunderbird - spotted on the Kaiapoi River bridge on Monday.

Meet the People - 4

Another in the series Meet The People - Ordinary and Extraordinary New Zealanders doing interesting things. Jason Dell is living the chef’s dream. As executive chef at the internationally top-ranked luxury lodge, Blanket Bay in Glenorchy, he has a generous food budget, a fabulous kitchen filled with clever gadgets and the ability to recruit a top brigade of chefs. And now he has published his own cookbook, Savvy. “For me it was all about the challenge of extending myself beyond the stove, of putting what I do down into words. " As well as being judged a New Zealand Chef of the Year, Jason,35, was a member of the gold medal-winning New Zealand Culinary team in Singapore in 2006. Most recently he won the prestigious 2007 Pacific Asia Travel Association Young Tourism Professional Award. He’s also proud of his Ngai Tahu heritage. “Most of my experience of traditional Maori kai came from extended family members at Rapaki when I was growing up. I think as you get older you also gain a greater appreciation for your ancestry and I’m definitely much more interested in learning about Maori kai than I was in my early years. I’ve managed to get hold of some very good books about native plants and how to grow vegetables in the old ways and I think it’s safe to say that Savvy won’t be my last book.” www.jasondell.co.nz

Lighting the Way

Kaiapoi, March 2008, Ajr.

When a simple street lamp becomes a thing of beauty. I was drawn to the elegant curve of this lamp beside the Kaiapoi River yesterday - and the loveliness of blue-on-blue

A Nose that Knows

Ilja Gort, the Dutch owner of Chateau de la Garde in Bordeaux, producer of Tulipe Wines has a nose worth knowing. He claims it can distinguish millions of different scents and is essential to guaranteeing the quality of his wines. He has thus had it insured by Lloyd’s of London for 5 million Euros (US$8million). Lloyd’s also insures the taste buds of restaurateur, Egon Ronay and the guitar-playing fingers of Rolling Stone, Keith Richards.

The Return of the Hedge

Hedge, Tai Tapu, Christchurch, March 2008, Ajr
I'm photographing hedges again - not that I ever really stopped of course. I planted my foot on the brakes to get this lovely curved hedge at Tai Tapu.

The Spaces Between 8

Lyttelton, March 2008. Ajr

My fascination with the long, narrow spaces between buildings continues. I love the mix of textures here - the red brick contrasted with red and green corrugated iron and a rough little stone pathway - and the little bunch of (barely visible) red geraniums at the end.

Lyttelton - A Snapshot

A friend and I spent Easter Saturday roaming the streets of Lyttelton with our cameras – a leisurely wander taking in every detail, every sign, every quirky little thing. I liken the whole business to a treasure hunt – that scouting about for THE picture, the one that encapsulates everything that caught your eye and sparked inspiration. So many snapshots fall short but every so often there’s one that sets you buzzing with excitement. It’s how I like to get to know a place – through the lens – and if I had my way, it’s what I would be doing day after day after day. Factor in a likeminded individual with a keen eye and you have the makings of a doubly inspiring day out. I am always intrigued by the creative response – what draws us to the things we draw, paint or photograph – and I am even more fascinated by the very individual responses of two or more people to the same subject. One might be drawn to a building in its entirety, the other to the door of the building, or some tiny detail of colour, texture, pattern – or, in my case, to the spaces between that one building and its immediate neighbour. Lyttelton, the tiny port town just over the hills from Christchurch, provided us with a feast of inspiration – from its fabulous Saturday Farmers’ Market to its old buildings and character-filled streetscapes. One of my favourite photos of the day was this No.7. surrounded by line and texture; the other, the boldly patterned Loons comedy theatre juxtaposed against the sky and the rigid ‘leaning’ street lamp.

Looking for Signs

Lyttelton, March 2008 Ajr

You don't have to go far in Lyttelton to find evidence of a quirky sense of humour. The Wunderbar - a Lyttelton social institution - is notorious for it. Along with the skantily draped mannequin torso swinging above the exterior staircase, you'll find interior lampshades topped with dolls' heads, walls of crushed velvet and all manner of other kitsch amusements - which no doubt seem funnier with every glass of ale.

The Rainbow Warrior

Rainbow Warrior II, Lyttelton Harbour, 2008 Ajr.

Yesterday I drove over to Lyttelton to see the Greenpeace vessel, Rainbow Warrior II – the original having been blown up in Auckland Harbour by French agents in 1985. This one, originally a fishing vessel in the North Sea, was launched in 1989 after being cut in half and extended. The wooden wheel (above) is the only component of the original Rainbow Warrior on board. Unexpectedly, I found myself on a free tour of the boat. It was an interesting experience. For one thing, I never expected to have to produce photo ID – twice – to even get into the port area; and while the video of the crew’s hair-raising ‘activist adventures’ was terrific, I was a little disappointed by the ‘hard sell’ of the Greenpeace staffers, who, having snared their captive audiences, lectured us in environmental issues that we’ve all heard before. Surely anyone visiting the boat is ‘on their side’ in the first place; and how much more interesting it would have been to learn what life is like at sea for the 15 multi-national permanent crew and, at any one time, the 15 activists who join them on various missions. Having seen the video though, I must say I admire their commitment – not for cowardly old me the act of throwing my body between a whale and a harpoon!

Easter Sunday

Easter Sunday, Ajr.

Barry's Provocative Unpublished Minutes - 3

Another contribution from our favourite printmaker

Hop On Over

No one will ever be able to convince me that Otahuna isn’t one of the most magnificent houses in New Zealand. It’s my dream home. I adore it. Every inch of its 18,000 square foot, three-storied framework is riddled with history. Built in 1895 for Sir Heaton Rhodes it’s reputedly the finest example of Queen Anne architecture in Australasia and it’s now an Historic Places Trust Category 1 listed property. Who can blame Hall Cannon and Miles Refo for tossing in their New York jobs, buying Otahuna and turning it into one of New Zealand’s finest luxury lodges? And what better way to kick of Easter 2008 than joining Hall and Miles for Otahuna’s First Annual East Hunt & Lunch? When I first got the invitation I pictured horses, hounds and terrified rabbits. It wasn’t until a week later that the penny dropped and it became clear that we would only be hunting easter eggs. Creative guests turned up in Easter bonnets; there were bunny's ears aplenty, a divine lunch in the timber pannelled ballroom; and an egg hunt complete with straw lined baskets. How easily we all slipped in to the childish delight of it all. And as it turned out, the only bunny in sight was five-and-a-half feet tall and wearing gumboots. http://www.otahuna.co.nz/

Meet the People - 3

Charlotte Berry & Barney, 2008 Ajr

More in the series Meet the People – Ordinary and Extraordinary New Zealanders doing interesting things - Charlotte Berry, 28, has been riding horses since she was three. They’re a passion and a lifestyle that she combines in running a successful horse trekking business, Terrace Downs Equestrian just out of Christchurch. It’s the perfect lifestyle – looking after ten horses – including her favourite, Bundabank (Barney), her own competitive show-jumping horses (which only she gets to ride) and the first horse she ever owned, her 28-year-old pony, Bob who’s there for the kids. “I moved out here because I love the outdoors and it seemed like a quiet place to study for my business studies degree. Now I’ve also become a mad-keen skier.” With Mt Olympus and Craigieburn skifields only a sneeze away, Charlotte is living the dream. www.terracedowns/activities.

The Spirit of India 2

Spirit of India musicans, Christchurch 2008, Ajr

What a glorious way to finish an altogether spectacular day! Last night’s 28th Spirit of India performance at Christchurch Art Centre’s Great Hall was something to tickle every nerve ending – the lilting sounds of exquisite flutes made almost human by Dr Natesan Ramani, performing with his son and grandson – all three brilliant flautists – accompanied by the astounding drumming talents of Raja Rao on his colourful Mridangam (double-headed drum) and fleet-fingered Trichy Murali on the Ghattam (clay pitcher drum). This a taste of South India, with young North Indian singer, Manjiri Kelkar doing astonishing things with the human voice, accompanied by tabla and harmonium players. I’m no musician but it seemed to me, a breathtaking interweaving of complex, subtle sounds and melodies that I would sit through all over again. www.nataraj.org.au

Flying High

It was the perfect day for it – 26-degrees, brilliant blue skies and one of the most gorgeous Canterbury landscapes you’ll find – and that’s before we even get to the jet boat and helicopter! Terrace Downs High Country Resort is a heaven-on-earth location roughly an hour inland from Christchurch. Perched high above the Rakaia Gorge it comes complete with classy villas and chalets, one of New Zealand’s top18-hole golf courses and a location that will take your breath away. Given that I’m mad about both jet boats and helicopters, I felt very spoilt today in being able to do both at the launch of the Terrace Downs Discovery Jet on Rakaia River. After being raced upstream on water unbelievably turquoise, through landscapes unbelievably pristine, we were picked up by Mt Hutt Helicopters and whisked back to Terrace Downs for lunch and, in my case, rather manic attempts to get a hole-in-one in a light-hearted putting contest. I have to say it was one of the loveliest little jaunts I’ve had in ages and I hope everyone is going to make a beeline for this fabulous location. I can’t believe how lucky we are to have it so close to Christchurch. www.terracedowns.co.nz

The Spaces Between 7

Blax Espresso Bar, Christchurch, 2008 Ajr

Life's a Beach

Brighton Beach, Christchurch, 2008 Ajr.

I have an American friend who lives at New Brighton, here in Christchurch. He frequents the beach – mostly because after living here for well over a decade, he still can’t get over the fact that he has this huge, pristine stretch of white sandy beach – virtually empty of other people – right on his doorstep. I guess we New Zealanders are lucky that way.

Dirty Down Under

Fire the name Julia Galvin into the GOOGLE search engine and you’ll find out everything you ever wanted to know about the World Bog Snorkelling Championships. Julia, 37 of Ireland, was recovering from a serious accident and on 16 painkillers a day when she decided it might be fun to try bog snorkelling; now she’s up there with the world champs and is about to make an appearance at Queensland’s Dirt’nDust Festival on April 4-6, at the coincidentally-named, Julia Creek. She’ll take on Australia’s brawniest bog snorkellers in a sloppy event that calls for compulsory snorkel and flippers. The aim? To complete two consecutive lengths of a 60-yard filled trench cut through peat bog in the shortest possible time. If you feel like joining them for a down and dirty weekend, check www.dirtndust.com

Window Shopping

Victoria Street, Christchurch, 2008. Ajr

When I go window shopping it’s the windows themselves that I’m looking at, not what’s behind them. I love the crazy graphics on this sushi shop window in Victoria Street – typical of the busy overlaying of text, image, reflections and interior detail that I often photograph. There's just something about that mad tangle of line and colour that inspires me.

This Time!

Victoria Street Clock Tower, Christchurch, 2008. Ajr

I drive past the Victoria Street Clock Tower almost every day and it was only recently that I learned of its chequered history. Designed by Benjamin Mountfort and made in England, the tower arrived in Christchurch in 1860 in 147 packages. It was initially installed at the Old Government Buildings in Durham Street, but after just four years it proved too heavy for its support structure. In 1864 it was thus packed away in the council yards where it stayed for the next 30 years. It was re-erected in High Street from 1897-99 to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee of the Coronation of Queen Victoria and then moved again -1930-33 - to its present site in Victoria Street, where its hefty volcanic stone and limestone tower, its ornate iron work and its coloured glass details have become an iconic part of the streetscape. Restored in 2004, it now gleams anew in what we hope will be its final resting place.

Road Trip

For those of you who responded so heartily to my earlier GPS post, here’s another little gem – Road Trip NZ – a series of audio guide CDs masterminded by former television director, Fiona McKenzie of South Canterbury. Simply slip the CD into your car player and listen to Fiona leading you the landscape accompanied by an engaging mix of voices, birdsong, Kiwi music, information and geographical detail. The first in the series, The Aoraki Route, takes you from Christchurch to Queenstown through the dramatic landscapes of South Canterbury and Central Otago. Fiona points out the landscapes that have inspired writers and filmmakers; she gives you history; and she enlightens you to Maori myth and land use alike. At Road Trip NZ it’s all about the journey. I couldn’t agree more. www.roadtripnz.co.nz

Good News & Bad

Some results from a recent TripAdvisor survey for you to think about:
Paris has the most unfriendly hosts in Europe, followed by London, with Moscow in third place. London remains the most popular destination nonetheless – and the most expensive. London and Paris took top spots for shopping, cuisine and public parks; and also took the two top spots as Europe’s dirtiest cities. The 1,400 travellers polled worldwide consider Zurich to be Europe’s cleanest city, followed – not unexpectedly – by Copenhagen and Stockholm. Zurich also managed to score second place in Europe’s most boring city category. And the most boring city in the world? Brussels. (sorry D&H)

The National Bird

Kiwi Top :Eketahuna; back of a bus; Bottom: Queenstown & Rotorua Ajr.

You could be forgiven for thinking we’re obsessed with kiwis in this country. Not only is the kiwi one of our rarest native birds, it’s also a national icon, an iconic design motif and the standard ‘nickname’ for New Zealanders. And for some reason there is a desire to make them significantly larger than life – gigantic in fact. I spotted these ones when I travelled around NZ last year researching the latest Frommers New Zealand travel guide.

Meet The People - 2

More in the series Meet The People - Ordinary and Extraordinary New Zealanders doing interesting things...........Dom Maxwell is part of a group of dynamic, forward-thinking, young winemakers now working in New Zealand’s fourth largest wine region, the Waipara Valley, an hour north of Christchurch. Dom, 31, is winemaker for Greystone Wines, who planted their first vines in 2003, produced their first commercial release of Pinot Noir and Riesling in 2006 and have already won major awards. The vineyard has also planted 2,500 native plants on their picturesque hillside environment to help maintain healthy soils and grapes. It’s a beautiful spot as you can see and Dom’s favourite place is the Greystone Top Block on a clear day, where he can look out across the valley and the vine-covered rolling downs. Who needs the city with ‘an office view’ like this? http://www.greystonewines.co.nz/

'Hard' Hearing

Ajr. 2008

This is a well decorated ear I sneaked up on at yesterday's Waipara Wine & Food Festival.

Did You Know......

...that the average New Zealander dumps about 700kg of waste a year in rubbish dumps. So says Green Times, news from the Green Party in Parliament.

The Spaces Between 6

Christchurch Arts Centre, 2008. Ajr.

Artist Studio 3

When I look at Kirsty Gardiner’s delicately wrought porcelain cat sculptures I think of Ancient Egypt, gods and pharoahs’ tombs. Cats were first domesticated in Ancient Egypt 4,000 years ago and they were a revered and sacred animal. Brought up a Catholic , Kirsty, who now lives in rural Wairarapa, north of Wellington, has an amazing ability to imbue her works with all the religious mysticism, beliefs, symbols and tribal rites that coloured her own upbringing in South Africa; yet at the same time, there’s humour there that I love. Kirsty admits that her recent series “Fetish for the Feline Form” tends to polarise viewers – “they’re either fascinated and enthralled, or repulsed and disturbed.” Her tall, slender, totemic felines on the other hand exude a strong, silent, almost eerie beauty filled with secrets. It seems to me, that Kirsty’s use of the feline form to convey very human characteristics and emotions plays right into our willingness - our need almost – to attribute our pets with human qualities. http://www.kirstygardiner.co.nz/ Photographs by Heather Busch, Featherston.

Northern Autumn

Auckland, 2007. Ajr

The first flush of autumn red is creeping across the façade of one of my favourite inner city Auckland buildings – this gorgeous corner property near Albert Park.

To Market, To Market

I can think of few nicer ways to while away a lazy autumn Saturday than indulging in treats at Canterbury Farmers’ Market, which is held every week in the grounds of Riccarton House in Christchurch. Farmers’ Markets have taken off in New Zealand – most bigger towns now have one – and they’re a great place to pick up fresh and handmade goodies – everything, in this case, from organic vegetables, fruit, flowers, local olive oils, preserves, breads, French and local cheeses, fresh organic meats, free range eggs, local chocolates, delicious little cup cakes and much much more. Factor in live music, good coffee, a streamside setting, a nearby bush walk filled with native birds and 600-year-old trees and one of Christchurch’s finest historic homes (built in 1856) and you have the perfect autumn morning. Best treat of the day: the Portuguese egg tart with coffee. http://www.canterburyfarmersmarket.co.nz/ http://www.riccartonhouse.co.nz/

Barry's Provocative Unpublished Minutes - 2

Continuing the witty inkjet print series by one of New Zealand's top printmakers.

Fern Fabulous

FERNS, Civic Square, Wellington 2007, Ajr.

It doesn’t matter how many times I stand in Wellington’s Civic Square and gaze up, I’m always inspired by Neil Dawson’s shimmering “Ferns” – a site specific orb of fern leaves suspended 14 metres above the square. Christchurch-based Dawson has an international reputation for creating exciting, site specific works, among them, a major commission for the Stadium of Australia in Sydney, created for the 2000 Sydney Olympics. You can listen to Neil chatting about Ferns at http://www.ferns.co.nz/

Gallery Hopping

ART TREK is back – that fun, annual night out trawling thirteen of Christchurch’s public and dealer galleries. Get a group of mates together and wander the streets, hopping from gallery to gallery; or get on and off the free bus that runs a 30-minute cycle connecting the galleries. Pick up the free map from galleries and information centres. When? Wednesday, March 19, 5.30pm-8.30pm

Buy Fresh

When it comes to buying vegetables, I’m a total convert to ‘fresh is best’ and lucky for me, I live close to the northeast city perimeter, just 2-3 kilometres from several big market gardens. I can stop at any one of four or five roadside vegetable sellers and take my pick from vegetables that have barely had the dirt washed off their roots. And they're a great photographic study as well!

Nude Flights Anyone?

Here's a novel idea - nude flights. An East German travel agency has unveiled what is believed to be the world's first nude airline. The flight is to be part of a summer day trip, which flies from the East German city of Erfurt to a popular Baltic Sea resort. Passengers can strip off on board but will have to get dressed before disembarking.

Pattern on Pattern

Speaking of pattern-makers (post Morris & Co), the team at Wellington's very delicious Floriditas Cafe in Cuba Street has the right idea.

The Big Picture

'Pulse', Darryn George, Christchurch Art Gallery, March 2008, Ajr

WOW! The classic white cube of the Sutton Gallery at Christchurch Art Gallery has been transformed and it looks magnificent. Christchurch-based artist, Darryn George’s PULSE is grabbing attention. I leaned against the entrance yesterday, listening to passers-by. Their first reaction was invariably astonishment. A team of painters has spent two and a half weeks transferring George’s elaborate design - inspired by the colours and patterns of Maori art and the architectural detail of traditional Maori meeting houses - onto the four walls of the gallery - approximately 300sqm floor-to-ceiling. The large rear wall is in fact a giant ‘wordscape’ created from the Maori word waru, which means eight – George’s reference to “a spiritual time and space beyond the seven days of the week.” The once-simple Sutton Gallery is powerful now, reverential almost. How nice if they could leave it this way.

Perfect Pages

Books from the Kelmscott Press showing as part of Morris & Co

Wellington’s Alexander Turnbull Library has kindly lent the Christchurch Art Gallery what is widely regarded as one of the most outstanding books ever printed. The Works of Geoffrey Chaucer is a treasure to behold – around 600 pages of elaborate William Morris designs and over 80 illustrations. Produced by William Morris’s Kelmscott Press in 1896, it is part of the major exhibition Morris & Co now showing at the gallery. Kelmscott Press was William Morris’s last major artistic and design venture and between 1891 and 1898 it produced fifty-two titles. A small selection of Kelmscott Press books is part of the show - a little something for book-lovers like me to drool over.

Patternmaker

Excuse me while I go slightly dotty over Morris & Co - one of the most important design exhibitions to come to New Zealand and showing exclusively at Christchurch Art Gallery. I’m just back from the media preview where I found myself mesmerised by William Morris’s leafy swirls, his exquisite layering of pattern on pattern and his obvious passion for nature. Drawn from the extensive William Morris collections of the Art Gallery of South Australia, Adelaide (one of the leading William Morris collections in the world and the biggest outside the United Kingdom), it presents everything from curtain fabrics, carpets, upholstery fabrics, wallpapers, tapestries, furniture, books and embroideries all designed between 1860- early 1900s; and all as fresh as they were 100years ago. It’s a stunning interplay of colour, pattern and texture and given that New Zealand is reputedly the biggest market for William Morris fabrics outside of the United Kingdom (and Timaru the biggest market within New Zealand), it ought to go down a real treat here. I especially like the ‘reproduced living room’ with reading materials and a swirl of reproduced WM on the foyer floor; the colourful billboards around town; the council car done out in William Morris pattern; and the fact that gallery seats have been re-upholstered in William Morris fabrics. The exhibition runs at Christchurch Art Gallery from March 14 – June 29. www.christchurchartgallery.org.nz/MorrisandCo

Outer Spaces

Top: Tecomanthe, Peter Peryer; Bottom: Wall Painting 218, Jan van der Ploeg
There’s a little bit of hide and seek going on at Christchurch Art Gallery. They’re making us look beyond the gallery walls to find the art – well, not all of it of course, just certain pieces tucked away in odd corners, raised high overhead, or flying high on outside banners. The programme – Outer Spaces – really kicks off from April onward but the big floral banner, Tecomanthe by leading New Zealand photographer, Peter Peryer is already installed high above the main doors of the entrance foyer; and Wall Painting No 218 by Jan van der Ploeg strides boldly down the side corridor that leads to the public toilets. There’s much more to come – an underground car park bursting with colour and sound; “an enigmatic object on the roofline;” cascades of digital pattern, mannequins, a large canine and attention-grabbing billboards. A great way to enliven contemporary art perceptions, to tease viewers with the unexpected and to generally bring the gallery to life. http://www.christchurchartgallery.org.nz/

Two Views

Auckland was in top photographic shape when I visited during my 2007 Frommers road trip. These are two of my favourite views: top - looking back towards the city from the Hilton Hotel and Princes Wharf; bottom - looking down toward the Ascott Metropolis (right) from the top of Albert Park.

Meet The People 1

Wesley Golledge, Christchurch.

And so begins a new series.....Meet The People - Ordinary and Extraordinary New Zealanders doing interesting things.

Wesley Golledge was just a university student looking for a part-time job to pay the bills when he applied to become a punter on Christchurch’s Avon River. Now, 18 years later, he owns the company (Punting on the Avon) and is still to get his history degree. “After my second week on the job I knew I’d found something I’d love doing,” he says. Keen to expand his fleet to ten boats, Wesley wants to cement the punting operation as one of Christchurch’s iconic tourist attractions. www.punting.co.nz

The Spaces Between 5

SKYTOWER from the street, Auckland, 2007. Ajr.

Where the Godwits Go

You’ve got to love a city that reveres its bird life. Christchurch is the sort of place where in spring, a mother duck and her sixteen fluffy ducklings can stop inner city traffic for a whole block while she waddles across the road from the Avon River to wherever she has decided to take her babies. Everyone stops. People take photographs. Now it’s the turn of the godwits – a time when hundreds of people gather out on Southshore to farewell the bar-tailed godwits as they set off on their arduous journey back to Alaska. They come here every year to feed on the rich estuary banks of Southshore Spit; then in April, over a four week period, they fly out in groups - 11,000km back to Alaska, via China. It’s an astounding feat and when the last birds have gone the Christchurch Cathedral rings its bells. Lovely! In a world saturated with bad news, I think it’s important to remember the small inspiring stories.

Poverty Tourism

Bored with Paris? Sick of perfect tropical islands? Had enough of shopping in New York? Then how about slumming it? Literally! Take your pick between the slums of Mumbai in India; Johannesburg, South Africa; Nairobi, Kenya; Rio de Janeiro, Brazil; Mazatian in Mexico or Cape Town in South Africa. Call it Poverty Tourism, Reality Tours, or just plain unsavoury voyeurism – you can now take guided tours into all these areas. Organisers will argue that it “raises awareness about poverty, fights stereotypes and brings money into destitute areas that wouldn’t otherwise benefit from tourism;” but as others argue, if you’re so concerned about helping these people, then just write them a cheque. True, ignoring poverty won’t make it go away but does ogling the destitute really constitute aid? You decide – and if you want to know more, I have the websites, the prices, the press releases.

Floral Fun

These brightly coloured flower icons are the new brand for the Ellerslie International Flower Show Christchurch. Having purchased Auckland’s highly successful Ellerslie International Flower Show for a cool NZ$1.9million, the Christchurch City Council was keen to come up with something “fresh, vibrant and fun.” I like the graphics. I think they do the trick nicely. But I have mixed feelings about the name of the event - why can’t it just be the Christchurch International Flower Show? Would Auckland have retained the name Christchurch if they’d bought it off us? Not likely! And as for the so-called “magnificent, innovative, inspirational” gold medal winning Ellerslie Experience garden on display in a tent on the Archery Lawn of the Botanic Gardens, I personally found it a total anti-climax after the visual promise of those colourful and lively graphics. Clever and sustainable? Probably. Visually enticing? Hardly.Thank goodness they have a whole year to come up with something spectacular.

The Golden South

Driveway, Millbrook Resort, Queenstown, 2007 Ajr.

It’s March and here in Christchurch the mornings are becoming darker, the days chillier, the evenings longer. The air seems swollen with the feel of autumn. Few places are as pretty in autumn as Arrowtown, near Queenstown, even further south. The landscape there will soon be draped in gold, yellow and red. That's where you'll find Millbrook Resort- tucked under the mountains and surrounded by a halo of gold. I photographed these poplars along their entrance driveway when I was visiting during my Frommers New Zealand research in the autumn last year.

Words For Autumn

Mellowgolden russetleavessmokechills fruitrichnessredyellowsienna fullnessripefruitseedspodsmushroomscalmperfectstillnessdampgoldenbrownpinklemonblackberry

Sailing Away

This is what came 'sailing across' my computer screen this afternoon - a short-notice invitation to indulge in a spot of match racing between former America's Cup yachts NZL40 and NZL41. Sadly, given prior commitments, I had to waive this singular chance to join the crew tomorrow for a 3-hour 'spin' from Auckland's Viaduct Harbour out across the blue, blue waters of the Waitemata Harbour. Sitting here, on a cool autumn Christchurch afternoon, it's a big temptation - I can think of few things nicer right now than a warm Auckland breeze blowing through my hair. Another time perhaps - there's always room to fantasise about joining the billionaire yachting set. www.explorenz.co.nz

Design Spot 5

Akaroa-based New Zealand jeweller, Peter McKay likens his Metaphysical Heart brooches to miniature soap operas – “I like to set up little plays and tensions, little scenes where human dramas play out.” He considers jewellery “a vehicle for storytelling” and whatever his ‘frame’ – heart, arch, dog tag, his little cast of recurring characters – girl, crow, boat, crucifix, Brancusi column – combine to create captivating miniature silver ‘worlds.’ Very much inspired by art and the Surrealist movement, he’s never “bought into that whole South Pacifica stone, bone, shell thing.” Instead, he suggested with a wry grin when I interviewed him last week, “we in the south grit our teeth and look toward the southerly, leaving those in the Auckland to stare toward the heat of the tropics.”

Get Lost

Getting lost is part of the fun of travel for me but I agree that sometimes, losing your way is just a nuisance. Some bright spark agrees and they’ve come up with a solution for travellers who really can’t cope with getting lost. A couple of weeks ago the Banks Peninsula Information Centre rolled out a new tourist information GPS system – a rental GPS unit, which delivers commentaries and information via the car radio. Just plug it into the car cigarette lighter, tune the radio and wherever you go on the peninsula, you’ll get a story relevant to the area – poems, songs and tales recited by school children and local identities. All this for NZ$10 – and that includes a CD version of the commentaries to take home.

The Back of Beyond

I am excited and terrified all at once. One month from now I will be spending ten days in the Australian Outback – that vast red expanse that American travel writer, Bill Bryson called “the driest, flattest, hottest, most desiccated, infertile and climatically aggressive of all the inhabited continents – a place that has more things that can kill you in a very nasty way than anywhere else.” I figure if Bryson, a man invariably photographed wearing a tweed jacket, can go to Australia and survive the Outback, then so can I. The Outback is home to the Australian feral camel – that’s why I’m going - to join a 70-kilometre camel wagon safari from the tiny south-west Queensland town of Cunnamulla to attend the Noorama Picnic Races. I’m expecting Aussie larrikinism at its best and I’m hoping not to see a single snake – especially given that Australia is home to nine of the world’s ten deadliest. And let’s not even discuss the fact that the Cunnamulla area is home to 13 different snake species!

Barry's Provocative Unpublished Minutes

BVC - 'Exec'

I am delighted that one of New Zealand’s most highly regarded printmakers has submitted a selection of images for me to display here as a regular feature. Characterised by his wry wit, his astute observations and relentless sense of humour, I'm sure they will enjoyed by everyone – especially those with a healthy appreciation for the bizarre, the quirky, the unexpected, the thought-provoking.

Waste Not, Want Not

Here’s a travel opportunity adventure freaks won’t want to miss – a guided tour along the Golan Heights Sewage System in Israeli Occupied Territories - and you thought you’d seen everything. It seems the Golan Regional Council has decided the region’s drainage system can potentially become a bonafide tourist attraction. I received the press release this afternoon. I don’t think I’ll be signing up any time soon – despite promises of innovative sewage processes, an insight into the production of electricity from cow dung and the use of purified sewage water to irrigate the area’s fields.

Dinosaur Days

Limestone outcrops and fossils, Claremont Country Estate.

If you stay at Claremont Country Estate in the heart of North Canterbury’s limestone country (see previous post below), you’re in for a big surprise – a free 4WD journey of discovery that will take your breath away. The riverbeds of Claremont Estate are riddled with secrets – hidden pre-historic treasures and more ancient fossils than you can poke a stick at. This is where you can stroke a 60 million-year-old fossilised dinosaur bone on a river bank! There have been amazing discoveries here. In 1872 Alexander McKay discovered the fossilised remains of a Plesiosaur (now in Canterbury Museum); and in 2004, a one-metre Mosasaur skull was discovered. Over the years, more than 134 vertebrate remains have been removed from the property for study. I was most intrigued by the huge spherical boulders – ‘God’s Marbles’ – that are found along the banks of the Waipara River. These 65 million-year-old limestone spheres, 1-2 metres in diameter, have evolved around fragments of dinosaur bones and over a period of about 4 million years, have grown like pearls to the size they are today. Over 230 of them have been removed from Claremont and shipped to museums around the world. This tour was one of the most exciting things I’ve done – totally breathtaking and all very “Jurassic Park.” I half expected to walk around a limestone outcrop and come face to face with Sam Neill and a flock of Pterodactyls. With my imagination already in overdrive, perhaps it’s lucky I didn’t. www.claremont-estate.com

North Canterbury Comforts

Yesterday I had the pleasure of spending the day at Claremont Country Estate, in Waipara Gorge, one hour north of Christchurch. There, amid spectacular scenery, Richard and Rosie Goord have created a gorgeous intimate lodge in one of Canterbury’s notable country homesteads. Claremont, built in 1866 from hand cut limestone blocks quarried on the property, is listed with NZ Historic Places Trust (Cat.2). The Goords enlisted Christchurch architect, Stewart Ross to renovate and extend the property and today guests can sink into its sublime comforts, safe in the knowledge that their every whim will be catered to. Not surprisingly, highly regarded American hospitality critic, Andrew Harper named it his Grand Award Winner for New Zealand, 2008. With its wide, wisteria-clad verandahs, its big rooms and the hospitality of its hosts, it has a wonderful ‘homely’ feel to it – relaxed, friendly, easy; but best of all, the total silence (but for the bids) and the tranquillity. Life in the country - that’s the thing! I was very taken by the fact that, while I was there a blue heron landed on the chimney. Surely that must be a sign of good luck? http://www.claremont-estate.com/

Mushroom Soup Anyone?

Left: Ajr drawings from "Nature Diary" 1984; Right: Richard Goord of Claremont Country Estate with giant fungi.

Things grow BIG in North Canterbury! Claremont Estate’s Richard Goord found this monster ‘mushroom’ as we travelled around Claremont's 2,400 high country acres in his 4WD vehicle. Back in 1984 I created a daily Nature Diary and many of my entries related to fungi; I studied and drew them endlessly and became quite familiar with many species. However, the mists of time have eroded my knowledge reserves and I am unable to categorically name this fellow. But it’s definitely not a common edible field mushroom (Agaricus campestris) – this I know because it had white gills and an unpleasant smell. Suffice to say I wasn’t prepared to risk eating it!

Best Buy - More Indian Enticements

Left: "The Boy and the Tabla"Barry Cleavin, 2008; Right: "Ta ki ta ki ta ta ka" Chaim Cleavin 2008

Get ready for the best ‘fine art’ buy on the market folks! Further to yesterday’s post about the Spirit of India Concert Tour, I have heard of further exciting enticements –a chance for Dunedin and Christchurch audiences to acquire one of only 20 limited edition folios of four signed and numbered A4 digital images by leading New Zealand artists, Barry Cleavin, Denise Copland, Philip Trusttum and Chaim Cleavin, with frontispiece (5 images in all) for $100. Yes, you did read that right! Just $100. The collection – entitled “A Visual Offering” - has been conceived, created and printed at The Boojum Press, Christchurch 2008 in support of the 28th Spirit of Indian Concert Tour of New Zealand by Natesan Ramani and Manjiri Kelkar. All proceeds from the image sales will be donated to the Nataraj Cultural Centre, Melbourne in appreciation of executive committee president, Mohindar Dhillon’s commitment to these touring concert performances. It’s going to be a case of first in first served I’m afraid, so Christchurch concert-goers will have to hope that the Dunedinites leave us some of the goodies. Dunedin March 18, Otago Museum; Christchurch, March 20, the Arts Centre. Get to the door early I say! http://www.nataraj.com.au/

Artist Studio 2

I photographed Phil in his studio in front of one of his huge Truck paintings yesterday
One of New Zealand’s most recognised contemporary painters, Philip Trusttum is ‘going large’ with works that straddle city billboards and a full-sized movie screen. Phil is no stranger to large works of course; his “Passport to the New Millennium” dominated the entire west wall of the Christchurch Convention Centre in 2000, running the length on one city block, taking the viewer on a 94-metre painterly journey through colour, texture and symbolism. Now he’s escaping buildings altogether and, as of May 1st, is displaying three of his (so far) 28-painting series of Trucks (“All What Trucks”) completed over the last 15 months, on gigantic billboards on three of Christchurch’s main arterial routes. At the same time, Hoyts Cinemas in Riccarton will be running a movie clip of the trucks prior to main movie in one of their theatres for two months – also from May 1st scaled down versions of these huge acrylic vehicles will be shown at COCA Gallery, Christchurch in May. It goes without saying that I’ll be photographing the billboards once they’re in place. http://www.trusttum.co.nz/

Shameless Self-Promotion

I was a little hesitant about the overt self-promotion inherent in mentioning the latest 5th edition of Frommers New Zealand but as a friend commented, the guide is such a major part of my life it would be odd not to mention it here. Certainly, receiving my pristine new copies in the post is always an event laced with disbelief, satisfaction, wonderment and relief – relief and amazement that I have somehow achieved such a massive task again. In conversation with another Frommers’ writer recently - American-based Bill Goodwin, author of at least three Frommers guides (the man deserves a medal) – it was heartening to know that I’m not the only one to look upon my travel guide life with a degree of astonishment – the endless hours of travel, the constant bombardment of people, the endless eating and hotel-hopping followed immediately by the total opposite: months of total seclusion and removal from ‘real life’ as you write and write and write and wade through a mind-boggling array of facts and figures - all 532 pages of them (this year for the first time, complete with a photographic section) to meet what always seems like an impossible deadline. Sometimes I think it is a wonder I emerge sane. Perhaps I haven’t. http://www.frommers.com/

The Spirit of India

A little piece of India fell into my letterbox today and my heart skipped an extra beat. When I opened the brochure about the forthcoming visit of India’s most celebrated flautist, Natesan Ramani and singer Manjiri Kelkar courtesy of the Nataraj Cultural Centre, which organises these Spirit of India concerts, I was immediately transported back to the colour, the passion, the exuberance and the explosive intensity of India itself – that wonderful world where ghazals, ragas, tablas and sitars send pleasurable shivers down the spine. Spirit of India 2008 is bringing this unique double-bill – voice and instrument, north and south Indian classical music – to Dunedin (Otago Museum) and Christchurch (Arts Centre) on March 18th and 20th respectively. I can’t describe classical Indian music – certainly not technically – but the words ‘bold, tragic, sensual, erotic, spiritual, rich, emotive’ all spring to mind. But a description will always fall short; experience is the thing and these performances will be a rare treat. http://www.nataraj.org.au/

Setting Sun

" Reasons for Voyaging" Graham Bennett. At Christchurch Art Gallery

I snapped this a few nights ago, driving past the Christchurch Art Gallery at sunset, fresh from the excitement of discovering the City Council buildings all a-glow in the evening light. There's something intensely satisfying about capturing a momentary image on 'film', by chance, in a split second. One fleeting inspiration snared. It makes me feel a little like a hunter coming home with a trophy or two.

Consider This.......

Here’s a bright idea for Christchurch City Council to consider – now that they’ll be hosting the Ellerslie International Flower Show (to be rebranded shortly) in March 2009. Fresh in my In Box this afternoon, a Press Release from Chicago about Chicago’s favourite Springtime pageant, Tulip Days on The Magnificent Mile, presented by Bank of America. In what seems like a brilliant idea to me, they’ve organised some of Chicago’s top ARCHITECTS to design kinetic art sculptures for the event. Some of the world’s top (Chicago-based) names in architecture have committed to creating moving sculptures designed with sustainable materials – recycled paper, plastic, glass, wood and more – spending no more than US$5,000 on their sculpture design and construction. Something like this might be an edgy, intelligent addition to a sea of blooms and re-worked garden designs. www.themagnificentmile.com

Coffee Break

I go to Joe's Garage to work regularly. I like the slightly manic resemblance this cafe has to a hyperactive family living room - all noise, clatter, laughter, distraction and toys. Yes, toys. Old Tonka Toys take centre stage here - in posters, decoration and a large toy box for kids to rummage in. I lay out my writing notes and I slip into 'the spaces between' noise and comraderie, where I can think. My writing is easily formed there. This morning I caught this old Tonka 'driving' across the window sill beside me against a backdrop of Kenton Chambers across the street. www.joes.co.nz

It's In The Bag

From 'Akaroa Mail', Feb.22, 2008.

How's this for a bright idea? Multi-coloured environmentalism! Lyttelton locals, just over the Port Hills from Christchurch, have decided to make their town 'plastic bag free.' In a joint initiative by Project Lyttelton and local Green Party members, they hope to convince locals to convert to some of the bright cloth bags now available through the Time Bank. Turns out New Zealanders still use one billion plastic bags a year and 35% of them end up in landfills. All ideas for recylcing plastic bags welcome.

Design Spot 4

The Ginkgo is my favourite tree. I love its exquisite leaves - leaves like no others. Each seems undecided: one divided in two, or two joined as one? Honey-gold fans in autumn, they cling to the tree until late in the season and then, inexplicably, all can fall rapidly within a few hours, or in a single day, layering into a thick yellow carpet below. The ginkgo features in many of my short stories. Japanese-born Christchurch jeweller, Koji Miyazaki is also rather enamoured of the ginkgo. It’s one of the traditional Asian plants that inspire many of his gold and silver jewellery pieces. I visited him at his Form Gallery (www.form.co.nz) two days ago, and fell in love with his delicately wrought ginkgo leaves – perfect treasures, gold and silver, some clinging, like leaves on a tree, to strands of traditional pearls. A happy marriage.

Rail Trail

I drove to Akaroa today and was pleasantly surprised to several people making use of the (reasonably) new Christchurch to Little River Rail Trail - a brilliant 'makeover' of the old Christchurch to Little River railway line - last used in the 1960s. Following the old, preserved railway embankments, the first 20-kilometre stretch of the trail between Motukarara and Catons Bay, near Little River opened in May 2006. It’s a bucolic wander, run or cycle alongside Te Waihora (Lake Ellesmere) and its gorgeous bird-filled spread of wetlands, passed Kaitorete Spit - famous for its early Maori settlement and wild beaches - passed Kaituna Lagoon, historic Kaituna Quarry and around the side of Te Waiwera/Lake Forsyth, home to thousands of ducks and black swans. The second section of the trail, opened later in 2006, joins the two country towns of Prebbleton and Lincoln (7km) and runs through pretty countryside taking in the cafes, shops, parks and historic buildings of the two communities. When the entire 44-km trail is complete it will run from Christchurch all the way through to Little River, offering walkers and cyclists a series of ‘bite-sized’ excursions - or one longer challenge - through stunning and diverse landscapes. When I stopped to photograph on the lake edge it was totally silent and a big cloud-filled Canterbury sky loomed overhead. Just magic!

When the Sun Sets.........

Am I delirious, or did the Christchurch City Council building look almost pretty last night?

The sun was setting. Its rays were kind. Perhaps this is the best time to view some of our lesser architectural icons?

Design Spot 3

It's going to be a week of inspiration for me as I prepare a magazine feature on three contemporary Christchurch jewellers. German-born Elfi Spiewack is the first. I walked into her inner city studio today and I didn't want to leave - all the things I love - seed pods, pebbles, colourful noticeboards filled with inspirations, books, gorgeous jewellery displays, shells, tools - all the things Elfie draws onto create the exquisite and diverse pieces of contemporary jewellery that she exhibits throughout New Zealand, Australia, Germany, USA and the Netherlands. Very much inspired by nature, some of her earlier series made from seed pods, gum nuts, magnolia stamens, gold and silver struck a real chord with me. I especially loved the lotus pod encased in sterling silver to form a brooch, complete with two natural seeds and one gold-plated.

Art And Conservation

While I am sometimes skeptical about the way everyone is jumping on the 'green/sustainability/environmentally-aware' bandwagon, I do like the sound of this art project - in October last year ten New Zealand artists from mixed disciplines - from musical composition, poetry and film-making to jewellery and the visual arts - were packed off on the conservation yacht, Breaksea Girl to spend six days and nights in deepest, darkest, remotest western Fiordland at the bottom of the South Island. Breaksea Girl is owned by Lance and Ruth Shaw, both active conservationists, who run their eco-tourism business, Fiordland Ecology Holidays (http://www.fiordland.gen.nz/), from their Doubtful Sound base. This inspired project has borne fruit in a new exhibition by one of the participants, Dunedin-based artist-writer, Claire Beynon, whose show at The Arthouse, Christchurch, FATHOM, ( March 5-March 23) is a direct response to Fiordland's dramatic and unique environment. I'm looking forward to seeing the show, although in some ways, it's a pity it isn't a group show of all participants - seeing all ten responses to that amazing environment in one place at one time would make for something truly unique. Maybe it will happen? In the meantime, we can only hope that whoever organised this brilliant 'waterborne residency' will make a habit of thinking this creatively and this laterally. There are so many ways of getting more from both art and tourism. www.thearthouse.co.nz

Let There Be Light

I missed the colourful Kite Day on Christchurch's New Brighten Beach recently; I wasn't going to miss the Chinese Lantern Festival. In fact, I got in early and got these photographs as the hundreds of lanterns and assorted animals were being installed in Victoria Park in the days prior to the event. Sadly, last night it rained and while crowds did gather regardless, it wasn't quite what it could have been. Traditionally held on the 15th day of the Chinese Lunar New Year and organised by the Asia New Zealand Foundation in conjunction with the Christchurch City Council's fun-packed Summertimes Programme (http://www.summertimes.org.nz/ ), it transforms Victoria Square into a brilliantly lit fantasy of illuminated creatures, lanterns and faces. Martial artists, Chinese dancers and food stalls do the rest.

A Glimpse of the Future?

With rising interest rates and finance companies folding left, right and centre maybe this is what we can look forward to?

It's A Sign

Road Signs - the kangaroo and the wombat obviously Australian; the kiwi and the golf cart, New Zealand. And of course the obligatory NZ 'Beware of the Sheep' sign - they are such terrifying creatures after all. You can't be too careful!

Design Spot 2

This is what you call keeping it all in the family - jewellery by Auckland-based son, Grant Rewi. Says Grant: "The style of my jewellery is more determined by the methods I use to produce it - I am not really a jeweller and having never undertaken any training as a jeweller, I probably approach the construction and manufacturing side of things differently to most jewellers. I don't own many jewellery-making tools; the majority of my work is produced in an engineering workshop. I think a lot of my stuff reflects that." Grant, who has a Bachelor of Design from Auckland's Unitec Institute of Technology, has exhibited work at Eon Design Centre, Unitec and Studio 14 Gallery, all in Auckland and at the Melbourne store of leading New Zealand fashion label, Zambesi. He also designs furniture and works fulltime at Auckland Museum.

No, I am Not Related to Rewi Alley

Yesterday I was asked if I was related to Rewi Alley. When I was in China I understood the confusion given the Chinese predilection for inverting christian and surnames; here in New Zealand the question just puzzles me. People seem to see the name ‘Rewi’ and assume we are related, overlooking the fact that his was a christian name and mine a surname.
On my last visit to Beijing I visited the former residence of New Zealand-born Rewi Alley, who gave so much of his life to working in China. Given his Communist beliefs, I imagined Alley living in a modest little backstreet dwelling. I was flabbergasted when I arrived at a large, two-storied stately home. Turns out Alley spent his last 29 years languishing in the grand elegance of the former Italian Embassy. He had not been alone. From the beginning of the 1950s the house, now The Friendship Museum of the Chinese People’s Association for Friendship with Foreign Countries (succinctly, CPAFFC), had been home to five “important foreign friends” including American journalist Anna Louise Strong, Japan’s Saionji Kinkazu, Jose Venturelli from Chile and Robert F.Williams from USA. They each had a large apartment within the mansion. It was a surprise to learn that Alley had sat in his sunny sitting room surrounded by stunning pieces of antique furniture from the Imperial Summer Palace. Large portraits hung on the walls, blue and white porcelain mingled with carved dragons and a crystal chandelier hung above. It is an understatement to say that Rewi Alley is highly regarded in China. He was considered their “number one foreign friend living in Beijing” and his surroundings made it clear that if you were ‘a number one friend,’ you were well looked after. Deng Xiaoping hosted Rewi Alley’s 80th birthday and he was honoured again by the Chinese heads of state when he turned 90. He died in Beijing in 1987 and his ashes were spread in Shandong, where he had spent much of his time establishing a technical school. When I left Friendship Museum, it was without a concrete impression of Rewi Alley. I wasn’t sure who I had ‘seen.’ Certainly I had a sense of the elderly, sociable, number one friend of China’s elite; but a vision of the younger, dedicated man who lived in austerity in rural China with the working folk, seemed a much more ephemeral thing. From ‘Travels in Beijing, a manuscript, Ajr