Showing posts with label outback. Show all posts
Showing posts with label outback. Show all posts

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Sightseeing in Australia - 4

I'd hate to count the number of hours I've spent walking the streets of inner city Melbourne with my camera. I visit at least once a year and regardless of the weather, I find endless inspiration in the people, the buildings, the colour, the movement - it never stops. It's easy, it;s familiar - yet at the same time, different enough from New Zealand to be endlessly interesting to me. I usually stay at the small commuter town of Woodend, an hour north of Melbourne on the main train commute. From there, I either train into the city, or I leap in the car and drive for miles and miles and miles, around rural Victoria, exploring the many small towns and villages along the way. Some days, when Victoria winds up the temperature, it can be an arduous business - but nothing air conditioning or a wound-down car window can't fix These Aboriginal shields were part of a stunning display at the Museum of South Australia in Adelaide. I spent a long time here and had time permitted, I would have made a return visit.
I photographed this local couple outside the Eulo Queen, an old hotel in the tiny town of Eulo in the southwest Queensland outback. I was on my way to the opal mines at Yowah and stopped off for a short sprint around town, a natter with a few of the locals and a peek inside this historic hotel.

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Sightseeing in Australia - 3

This, people, is the famous Hanging Rock of the book and movie fame, "Picnic at Hanging Rock." It's located close to the Victorian town of Woodend, about an hour north of Melbourne, that I visit every year to see family. While the story in 'Picnic at Hanging Rock' is fictional, there is definitely something about this place - or maybe it's because I found it hard to separate the fiction from the fact. Either way, the first time I visited, I kept walking around and up the mysterious rocky outcrop half expecting to see the ghosts of schoolgirls. The school that features in the story by the way, is based on a real school not too far from the rock. Today there's a large domain here - and a racecourse - and it's a popular family picnic spot, complete with numerous quite tame kangaroos that hang about. Back in 2008, I took part in a camel wagon trek in the Southeast Queensland Outback area, in and around the tiny outback town of Cunnamulla. It was the beginning of one of my best trips to Australia. I've written about the trek several times already on this blog (put Cunnamulla, outback or camels into the search box for more) so I won't prattle on about it again - other than to say, if you ever get the chance to get into the Outback don't miss it. It's where you get to meet the 'real' Australians, the ones who have taken that vast, ruthless land and tried to tame it for their own - and their country's ends. It's an endless battle of wits, stamina and hard labour that breeds a special kind of crazy, raw, hilarious bunch of people that I loved.
When I visited Brisbane last - also 2008 - I was stunned to see how the city had grown since my previous visit. Construction was in full swing and there were cranes at work all over the city. There was a very positive vibe about the place that I found quite energising - and fresh out of the Outback, I was a little dazed and awestruck by both the vast numbers of people and dwellings. I can't imagine how the city must look now, after the recent devastating Queensland floods and Cyclone Yasi's aftermath, but hopefully, the resilience of those Queenslanders will have the place looking bright and sparkly again soon. It's not as though they're strangers to the tyranny of weather after all.
Adelaide 2007 - another terrific trip. I'd heard so much about Adelaide for so many years, I never knew what to expect. But I adored the place. It's such an easy city to get around. It's small and very very cosmopolitan. Factor in its proximity to vast wine regions, the Adelaide Hills and the stunning Fleurieu Peninsula and there's every reason to put it near the top of your Australian Must-Visit list.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Sightseeing in Australia - 2

Interior: The Eulo Queen, Eulo, Outback, Southwest Queensland, 2008.
One of my best Aussie adventures yet, took me to the Outback region of Southwest Queensland - ten days of unbridled madness and fun. Outback life is raw, rugged and rough - a fantastic place where people pitch together in their battle against the trying forces of nature. Snake-handler. Kyneton, Victoria, 2008. For New Zealanders, there is a wonderful familiarity about a lot of Australia, yet that's always offset by significant differences - like snakes for instance! I took this shot at the annual Kyneton Country Fair, the equivalent of our A&P Shows I expect.
Bendigo, Victoria, 2009 I drove up to Bendigo one day when I was staying just north of Melbourne. It was - or is normally - a two-hour trip but I stopped at every little town and village I passed along the way. And the closer I got to Bendigo, the hotter it got, so that when I finally arrived around midday, it was 39-degrees and I was sweltering. But I adored Bendigo. It was one of Australia's richest cities during the gold rush and that early wealth is reflected in much of the astonishing architecture.
Adelaide Hills, Adelaide, South Australia, 2007.
I flew over to Adelaide with a photographer in 2007, on a writing mission for Air New Zealand's magazine, Kia Ora. It was a brilliant 5-6 days spent exploring the city, nearby Adelaide Hills and the magnificent Fleurieu Peninsula. I'd heard a great deal about Adelaide in the year's prior, mostly that the city was designed by the same urban planner who designed the layout for Christchurch; and I have to say I wasn't disappointed. I'd move there in a heartbeat.

Thursday, February 3, 2011

Sightseeing in Australia

Brisbane, Queensland. 2008
I Love Australia!
Every part of it.
Everything about it.
Castlemaine, Victoria , 2009.

Tired of long haul flights to Europe and North Asia, I have, these past four or five years, devoted at least one trip a year to some part of Australia. I've visited many times prior to that of course, but I see it differently now - not just as a quick jaunt across the Tasman to something familiar but as a vast country that most New Zealanders (and many Australians) never see anything but a minute portion of. So I have been making it my business to move beyond the obvious east coast cities and venture out into the wider country. Suffice to say, that in the last five years, I have already amassed thousands of photographs taken in various parts of Australia - there are even more thousands on slide film that I have yet to digitise.

Cunnamulla, Outback, Southwest Queensland, 2008. Melbourne, Victoria. 2009. So, rather than leaving them tucked away in my computer files, I've decided to give some of them an airing in a new blog series "Sightseeing in Australia." It's going to be a mixed bag. People, places, the weird and the wonderful. Consider it a mini sightseeing trip. And it begins here. And if anything interests you, click on the location in the index line below the blog, because I guarantee you'll find more.

Monday, August 17, 2009

Showtime 1 - The Culture of Racing

I was sorting through my Australian Outback photo files the other day when I came upon these ones from the annual Noorama Picnic Races that I attended in 2008. Noorama is miles from anywhere. You probably won’t even find it on a map – it is after all, little more than the recreational centre that was formed in the mid-1900s as a meeting place for the farming community’s sporting and social activities. Yet in the South West Queensland outback, Noorama is legendary. The district dates back to the 1880s and has a rich pastoral history; and the Noorama Picnic Race Club is the jewel in the region’s social crown. Formed in 1964, it held its first race meeting on May 14th 1966 with 43 horses competing for A$365 worth of trophies. It was a huge hit and today people still travel hundreds of kilometres to attend the three-day event. Forty-two years on, the 2008 five-event programme offered prize money in excess of A$31,000 and the feature race – the Noorama Cup – was worth A$7,900.
Located on Noorama Station, almost one hundred kilometres southeast of the tiny outback town of Cunnamulla, Noorama is isolated. It took me 14 hours to get there from Christchurch and I flew most of the way - via Brisbane followed by a two-hour flight to Charleville, a two-hour drive to Cunnamulla (where I was given a hot pink jackaroo hat for the occasion) and another two-hour drive further south to Noorama. By the time I arrived it was just after 5pm on a Friday night and I felt as though I had been to London and back. My pink jackaroo hat was on a nasty lean, I was dusty, over-heated, tired and wondering what I had let myself in for. The race track was all but deserted, there wasn’t a horse in sight and I was still pondering the mystery of why the plane’s flight attendant had given such detailed lifejacket instructions - given that we were flying over a vast, shrivelled outback landscape and the chances of our crashing into water seemed highly improbable.
My outback hosts were kindly. They propped me up in a chair with a bottle of water, trying for their part to digest the fact that they had landed themselves a non-drinking, non-smoking Kiwi journalist who didn’t eat meat and had never attended a race meeting in her life. Noorama promised to be a learning curve for us all. And so it was. My first lesson the Friday night Calcutta – the pre-race horse auction - kicked off around 6pm just as I began thinking about sleep. Locals arrived in a steady stream of dust and congregated around the bar in the biggest marquee. Everyone was primed for action, the barbecue was fired up and the auctioneer started the bids. And that’s all I remember of my first night at Noorama. I fell asleep to the pleasant drone of outback hilarity and the sizzle of gigantic steaks.
By 11am the next day, it was 28-degrees and the first horse floats were pulling up to the open-air stables. Horses were being hosed down, brushed and fitted with nose-bags; track preparations were underway; the First Aid team had arrived; the bookies were setting up; and the first fancy hats were bobbing among the growing crowd. The energy was infectious. Ladies in their race-day finery banded together, swigging champagne and preparing the members’ pre-race cocktails and treats. Men strutted around the grounds clutching beer cans and brushing flies from their Akubras. Jockeys gave the track a pre-race check; and kids of all ages ran free and wild.
Later, as the horses turned for the straight, locals in fancy race-day outfits leaned over the rails cheering for their favourites. Glasses of champagne spilt over, hearts pounded, fists pumped the air and the loud speaker was drowned out by hooves thundering down the dirt track. It was a dramatic scene set against enormous cloud-filled skies and parched red dirt that hadn’t seen rain for seven years; and as the locals yelled and cheered in 35-degree autumn heat, I thought how similar race meetings were the world over. And now, with spring in the air here in Christchurch, racing fans are already thinking about the annual New Zealand Cup and Show Week in November – a crazy extravaganza of six major horse racing events, fashion awards, international rodeo events, the Royal New Zealand Show and more. This year, New Zealand Cup and Show Week runs from November 7-14 and you can find out more about how we do the whole race-day thing here in Christchurch by checking out www.nzcupandshow.co.nz And this year, my appetite whetted by my Noorama race day experiences, I'll be checking out everything the Christchurch week of racing festivities has to offer!

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Wings and Spikes

Queensland Outback. April 2008. Ajr
We all know about Australia's legendary reputation for being home for all manner of nasty biting, stinging, attacking poisonous critters. Here are two of its less threatening inhabitants - a rather large dragonfly and the famous echidna, which I photographed as it walked across the road.

Monday, July 7, 2008

Going Solo

South-west Queensland, Australia. April 2008. Ajr
This single tree in a flat plain of crisp, golden grass somehow sums up the vastness of the South West Queensland outback in Australia. I took this photo as I shuffled across this spectacularly endless landscape on the Charlotte Plains Camel Wagon Safari, which progressed at the perfect pace for considering the grander scheme of things. www.charlotteplains.com.au

Saturday, May 24, 2008

It's a Sign!

Cunnamulla, Queensland, Australia. 2008. Ajr
I photographed this whacky little road sign outside the Cunnamulla cemetery in the Australian Outback in South West Queensland when I was there in April. I never saw a single turtle the entire time I was there but I like the idea of them bringing traffic to a standstill. That would be a photograph worth waiting for.


Tuesday, May 13, 2008

In Flight

Australian Outback. April 2008. Ajr
Hawk in flight - Cunnamulla, South west Queensland

Camel Chase

Australian Outback, April 2008. Ajr
It didn’t matter how many times I heard the fact that Australia has the largest population of feral camels in the world, I was always surprised to turn around and see a camel chasing our wagon. That was on my recent Charlotte Plains Camel Wagon Safari in the Australian Outback and this was my favourite camel, Benny, who enjoyed roaming at will while his fellow camels hauled our wagon. That’s him nosing up to my camera on the post I wrote a few weeks back too. He likes the company of humans and he completely won me over with his cheeky, infectious personality. www.charlotteplains.com.au

Sunday, May 4, 2008

Something Sparkly

Yowah Opals, Australian Outback. Photo: Peieta Mills
For those of you who've never seen an opal 'in the raw' here are some Yowah nuts - the name given to the distinctive nut-like rocks found in the opal fields around the tiny town of Yowah in south west Queensland, population about 30 in summer and about 450 in winter. Because of the heat there 45-52-degreesC in summer, most miners leave town and return in the cooler months. The Yowah nut is a round red/brown sandstone with rattling contents - an opal if you're lucky. The miners slice them in half - as above. The first mining lease at Yowah was issued in 1883 and it's still being worked. The Yowah Opal Festival is held each year in the third week of July and there are always year-round fossicking areas set aside for tourists.

Another Aussie Road

Near Cunnamulla, SW>Queensland. April 2008.Ajr
I can't resist - I have to show off another of the wonderful 'untamed' roads I photographed in the Australian outback - this one we followed for many hours during Willie Cooma's camel safari. Between the endlessness of the roads and the swaying movement of the camels there was something almost hypnotic about the whole trip.

Saturday, May 3, 2008

A Bird in the Hand

Emu. Cunnamulla. April 2008. Ajr
I was told by the Cunnamulla locals that if you lie on the ground and wave your leg about in the air, you'll arouse the curiosity of emus and they'll come over to see what's happening - giving any keen photographer the chance of the perfect shot. I wasn't prepared to try the trick but Robyn Reid waved her white hat out the window and these crazy birds certainly came close enough. It's not the perfect shot but it's as close as I came without a telephoto lens.


Friday, May 2, 2008

Mellow Yellow

Top: Yellow Eucalypt. Bottom: Berries of Cedar Tree.

I loved the vibrant yellow of these two plants contrasting with the vast blue skies of the Australian outback.

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

A Camel on Your Neck

Jewellery. April 2008. Ajr
Robyn Reid of Charlotte Plains, Cunnamulla in Queensland's Outback is a big fan of camels. You can't miss that fact. Not only does she wear one around her neck but she and her husband, Reid host Willie Cooma's Camel Wagon Safaris on their 70,000 acre sheep and cattle station. And if you're looking for adventure rather than just travel, this is the experience for you. www.charlotteplains.com.au

Saturday, April 26, 2008

Red Roads to Nowhere - 2

Red Road, near Cunnamulla, Australian Outback. April 2008. Ajr
My previous posting about the Australian outback's red dirt roads (Tuesday) has received a surprising amount of comment. It seems I'm not the only one who finds them intriguing. I liked this response - from my brother in Los Angeles (previously Australia & NZ) - so much I am adding it here for all to read.
"Those are roads that none of us will ever see – unless we inhabit the outback. I think we have certain expectations of a road and those challenge everything we know about roads. We expect a road to go somewhere - we expect there will be a destination that we can reach for example. We expect to be entertained by variety. But those roads defy us to even initiate a journey. We realise that there may be no curves, dips, hills, or changes of scenery for a greater distance than our minds can accept. There might be no possibility of reaching a terminal point or a definable destination within a time frame that our conscious expectation demands. Indeed, there is a definite understanding that one might not reach a destination ever– an understanding that one could - and some do – die in the journey. Roads like those will not be dominated. They mock our puny belief system and expectations. They are roads we have never known and at a subconscious level they pose a threat to our belief systems. Do we really want to travel to ‘nowhere’ or to somewhere where there is nothing? Will we, at some distant point, find ourselves too far from our point of origin to return and yet still much too far from our destination? Could we become lost on such a road? Would it matter if nobody knew we were there, that we had not seen another single person on our travels, that we didn’t know where there was? Could it be that these roads might go to a place where there is no there?Are we comfortable and confident about such roads? Probably not."

Down and Dusty

When I was in Cunnamulla in the Australian outback, I did just about as much as is possible in any given day – kayaking; huge sheep and cattle station visits; sitting around a campfire with camels and walking over a 70-metre swinging bridge. I went underground to explore opal mines. There were wheat farms, grape farms and date farms to visit; and I cruised up the Warrego River at sunset in the company of millions of roosting birds. I visited mud baths and took a town tour in a 1955 FJ Holden Special. I soaked in naturally hot artesian bore waters and I visited the scene of Eulo’s last lizard races. And let’s not forget the Noorama Picnic Races. And that’s before you even consider the sand-boarding, the claypan boogie, the pub visits, the campfire dinners, the billy tea smokos and the general exploring. All of this a real ‘down and dusty’ outback adventure that scores ten out of ten with me. http://www.stephaniemillsgallery.com.au/

Friday, April 25, 2008

Self-Portrait 1 - In a Desert

Australian Outback. April 2008. Ajr

Self-Portrait in a Desert.
Please note the extra long legs!

Thursday, April 24, 2008

Camel Capers




Let me introduce Willie the Camel Man of the Charlotte Plains Camel Wagon Safari – an amazing experience that brings you up close and personal with Willie Cooma and a selection of his 22 camels. And if you’re one of those people who have always assumed that camels are foul, biting, spitting, temperamental creatures, let me the first to assure you that not all camels are ‘created equal.’ Willie has a passion for these animals. He trained racing camels for 15 years, he’s captured wild camels in Australia’s Simpson Desert and he’s travelled over 45,000 kilometres around Australia with two of his favourite animals, Snow and Benny. That all makes for an astonishing rapport and spending two days travelling with others in Willie’s quirky wagon was one of the best, one of the funniest and yet also one of the most tranquil and enlightening things I’ve done. http://www.charlotteplains.com.au/ http://www.stephaniemillsgallery.com.au/


Tattoo

Tattoo. April 2008. Ajr
One inner arm tattoo - found in the Australian Outback

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