A Day at the Sunday Market - Port Douglas, Queensland

When I arrived at the Port Douglas Sunday Markets in Queensland a week or so ago, I couldn't help thinking of the Christchurch Arts Centre Market - no longer at the earthquake-damaged Arts Centre of course and probably still reeling from a significant shift out to the Ferrymead Historic Village. As I wandered between a far greater number of stalls, all selling rather exotic tropical wares, I couldn't help my sigh of relief. It was, after all, a balmy 27-degrees, the coconut palms were swaying in a gentle breeze and the ground was solid - completely stable and unmoving. I noted then, that after just three weeks in Australia, I was not missing my home city and its constant after shocks one little bit.

And at Port Douglas Sunday Market, there is much to catch the eye. You can pick up a taxidermied crocodile - or part thereof - should the urge take you; and you can choose a coconut, have it husked and split open so you can drink the juice and eat the flesh....which I guess is pretty much what the crocodiles do on a good feeding day.

Local characters man a wide assortment of stalls - a crazy number of them selling the usual crystals, tie-dyed garments and tropical shirts that purveyors seem to think all tourists should invest in. Personally, I've never quite seen the link between tourism/tourists/travelling and the need for crystals; but I've seen it time and again in New Zealand tourist spots too. Visit Akaroa, the Bay of Islands - almost anywhere - and you're bound to find a shop filled with suspended crystals, Buddha figurines and incense.

Understandably, 'things from the sea' feature strongly in Port Douglas too. I could have come home with a suitcase full of beautiful shells. As it was, I never bought a single one. I photographed them instead - along with the hundreds of strings of freshwater pearls.

And I need not mention my love of tropical fruit!

The market is a dream place to pig-out on pineapples, bananas, mangoes, dragon fruit (top image) and much more. One tropical fruit stall owner offered a taste of an icecream bean - he raved about it. Obviously unashamed salesmanship, as I thought them tasteless - a bit like having a mouthful of wet cottonwool I suspect. But good for a laugh.

I'm always ready for a good laugh and the Aussies certainly know how to provide it.

Have Bike, Will Travel

A Relaxed Sunday Scene

Oxford Village

North Canterbury

February 2010. Ajr

A French Market

Christchurch's French Market started life in an obscure, hard-to-find location in SOL Square. In what I can only assume to be a bid for higher visibility, it has shifted to Poplar Lane and you'd have to be blind to miss the proliferation of red, blue and white signs that point the way. It's a good thing the signs are there, because again, they have opted for the most out-of-way part of the laneways - perhaps it's more sheltered there?

I've visited this market several times over the last year and I must say that I always come away disappointed. Apart from a few crusty sticks of bread, there's little that I can find that is genuinely French. Herbs grow anywhere; imported scarves (not French) can be purchased from a shop; whitebait is much more iconically Kiwi than it is French; and we can all make our own muffins, or buy them at any cafe. In its old location there were at least French macroons and French antiques. I wonder what happened to them? I think it's all a bit of a missed opportunity really.

A Rural Canterbury Christmas

Kaiapoi is a small rural service town just 10-15 minutes’ drive north of Christchurch – depending on how fast you cross the Waimakariri River to get there. When I was a kid growing up in the North Island, all Kaiapoi meant to me was a label inside woollen garments and on blankets. The town was well known for the woollen mill run by the Kaiapoi Woollen Manufacturing Company, which produced a wide range of products that can still be found all over the world. But I digress… I went to Kaiapoi yesterday for the annual Kaiapoi River Carnival, Street Market and Santa Parade – an all-day affair that also included speed boat and rescue demonstrations and dragon boat racing on the Kaiapoi River, which runs right through the heart of the town.

I got there an hour after the start and the whole town was packed. I’d never seen so many people there. In all fairness to Kaiapoi, although it began life as a rural service centre, it is now virtually a satellite town/suburb of Christchurch. It’s a domicile for many who work in the city and the population (2006) sits around 10,200 with a further 1,700 in the surrounding district. That represents a growth rate of 11% over the previous five years and by now, in 2009, I’d say it’s grown even more. Large new subdivisions are sprouting up all around the perimeter. For all that growth, there is still a very real sense of stepping back in time when you hit Kaiapoi. The buildings are old and wobbly (a few are restored), the shop window displays are definitely archaic and the town’s leading department store, Blackwells, was opened in 1871 and hasn’t changed much since. I went into Blackwells yesterday and smiled at the shambolic array of goods – fishing rods nestled up against stands of women’s hats, scarves and bags for instance. The whole place had an air of the 1950s about it. But none of the locals seemed to mind, so why should I? In many ways, it’s nice to know that rampant slick commercialism hasn’t taken over the entire world….Kaiapoi is still waiting.

As for the Christmas Parade and carnival festivities….well….what can I say? I spent the whole day switching between amusement, surprise, nostalgia and amazement. In short – a great day out. Unlike many of the much more sophisticated city Santa parades, this one had all the hallmarks of community do-it-yourself spirit. The all-day street market set the mood. The main street was closed off and became a busy marketplace complete with a two-man band belting out all the oldies from ‘Achey Breakey Heart’ and ‘Ten Guitars’ to ‘Dancing Queen.’ There were preserve and plant stands, hot-dogs, candy floss, lucky dips, merry-go-rounds, Scottish dancers, clowns, brass bands, stilt-walkers and a million hideous shopping opportunities. The local tavern overlooking the river did a roaring trade; mobile espresso vans faced endless queues and food stalls included unlikely treats like haggis on a stick and black pudding butties; and people gathered on the riverbanks to watch wood choppers and practising rowers – and the odd jet boat and inflatable rescue demonstration.

And then came the Santa parade! It’s years since I went to a Santa parade so maybe I’m a little out of touch but I couldn’t help thinking it would have been hard to come up with a more disparate and unlikely gathering of parade participants than Kaiapoi’s effort yesterday. The truly bizarre collection of included everything from tractors and soliciting politicians to horsemen, Vikings, angels, hotrods, vintage trucks, ponies, a trailer load of Christmas fairies, fire engines, boy scouts, ambulances, school floats and bands on the back of trucks – oh and of course the Scottish bagpipes and knee-kicking dancers. It’s as if every single club and organisation in town decided to have a crack at it. Quite frankly the floats were dreadful in terms of decoration and design but it didn’t seem to matter a bit. Everyone was happy, Santa waved, ladies threw sweets and glitter, the stilt walkers wobbled about and bunches of balloons floated through the air. Totally crazy and much to my surprise, I loved every minute of it.

All Your Eggs in One Basket

A Market Moment

Riccarton, Christchurch

November 2009 Ajr.

One Loaf or Two?

There's something immensely satisfying about photographing fresh bread and I was in my element at Riccarton Bush Farmers' Market this morning. There were at least four different bread stalls there, all handcrafting different tasty treats. For my own consumption I settled on something, sweet, delicious and Dutch - with a name that was completely unpronouncable!

A Touch of Glass

Sunglight catching at Stems

Handblown

At Arts Centre Market, Christchurch

October 2009. Ajr

A Vineyard Moment

It was autumn when I got to the Hawke's Bay in May and all the vines were turning lustrous shades of red and gold. Sadly, the weather was not quite what we've come to expect from the Hawke's Bay - grey overcast skies rather than the usual vibrant blue, but somehow it didn't matter. Regardless of the time of year you visit, this part of New Zealand - slung out on the North Island's east coast - offers food and wine lovers some of the best experiences in the country. From superb farmers' markets, orchards, chocolate-makers and boutique preserve makers to over 45 wineries producing everything from cabernet sauvignon to riesling, chardonney, sauvignon blanc and sweet dessert wines, it's a feast from dawn to dark. You'll also find some of the loveliest boutique accommodation here, with something to suit all budgets. www.hawkesbaynz.com

From the Food Files

The Arts Centre Market in Christchurch is one of the city's best known tourist attractions. I'm in two minds about the quality of some of the goods on sale in the market - there are some very nice wares but they are often so swamped in what I very generously call 'crap' that it's hard to take the place seriously. I often wander through of a weekend. For one thing, as a travel guide writer, I consider it my duty to be informed about as much as possible and that includes the quality of assorted marketplaces; for another thing, quite apart from the goods on sale, there's always a lively atmosphere with buskers and visitors that excites my camera. Just around the corner from the main market are the food caravans - a narrow alley that runs behind Court Theatre, which is crowded with food vendors and hungry punters. All nationalities converge - predominantly Asian - but among them all, I spied this stall selling delicious European pastries. From memory the guy was Czech but don't take my word for it. My camera gets so filled with stuff that I often forget names and places.

From the Art Sign Series

Riccarton Rotary Market, Christchurch

Do I sense something hopeful and unduly optimistic about this sign?

August 2009 Ajr

Food Basket

Adelaide, South Australia. 2007. Ajr

Don’t be fooled by Adelaide’s reputation as the hottest, driest state capital in Australia; this charming, cosmopolitan hub of 1.2 million people is a veritable food basket – a wine and food connoisseur’s dream destination. It’s green, gorgeous, gastronomically blessed. Thanks to ideal growing conditions and a balmy Mediterranean climate, South Australia produces almost 65% of Australian wine exports by volume and there are over 300 cellar doors, most of them within a 90-minute drive of Adelaide. The city – Australia’s fifth largest - is surrounded by twelve main food regions including the famous wine producing Barossa and Clare Valleys, Coonawarra, McLaren Vale, the Adelaide Hills and the Fleurieu Peninsular; and with a population that includes over 150 settling nationalities it has an enticing culinary diversity broad enough to please any palate. The city itself has over 700 restaurants, reputedly more per head of population than any other in Australian city; and with streets filled with markets, lively cafes and restaurants it’s hard to resist the urge to eat. At the heart of it all – and one of my favourite Adelaide places, is the Central City Market – a busy gathering bulging with people, goodies and photographic opporuntities. Now 132 years old, Central Market is an institution. Founded in 1869 by a small group of gardeners, this South Australian icon now welcomes over eight million visitors a year and has a huge impact on the city’s dining scene. Covering three acres, it features around eighty businesses (99% of them family-owned), food from at least fifty different cultures and most of it grown within a 20-kilometre radius of the market. It’s open Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday the market is gourmet heaven. From dawn to dusk it presents a colourful mix of fresh vegetables, spices, meat, fish, fruit and more exotic treats –everything from an Aussie take on the traditional Kiwi pavlova to Russian piroshki, gourmet cheeses, old fashioned boiled sweets, Italian pizzas, dried meats, chocolates, pastries, steaming laksa, dried fruits, exotic breads and oysters. The city’s chefs come and go collecting their daily produce and in between people of all ages – families, lawyers, police, judges, firemen – congregate to “shoot the breeze and drink coffee.” It’s shopping the way shopping should be – the old style where people come face-to-face with their suppliers. It’s an organic, ever-changing phenomenon that Adelaide is – rightly - immensely proud of. www.southaustralia.com

Vive La France!

Christchurch. Jan. 2009. Ajr

This morning's French Farmer's Market in Struthers Lane was a quiet affair.

Mind you, I was there early and several of the stall holders are apparently still on holiday. That must explain the complete and unfortunate lack of a French baker! Surely you cannot have a French market without a French baker? But it was a mellow morning and it was nice to sit there regardless, sipping on espresso, watching people come and go.

Carving A Living

Maori Carvings

On Sale

At The Cathedral Square Market

Christchurch

Jan 2009. Ajr

Daily Bread

Riccarton, Christchurch. Sept.2008. Ajr

Fresh Goodies

@

Riccarton Rotary Market

Christchurch

Market Fresh

Riccarton Rotary Market, Christchurch. Sept.2008. Ajr

The Protea is among my favourite flowers so I felt fully justified in getting carried away with my camera at Riccarton Rotary Market early this morning. I snapped these beauties just as the sun was peeking through the trees and landing on these spikey petals. The market itself was in fine shape this morning. It seems to get bigger every time I visit... it is, supposedly, New Zealand's biggest outdoor market and now attracts well over 300 vendors. It's just the place to hunt out a good bargain - or fresh produce and delicious cakes. I photographed a few of those too - and ate the rest!

Morning Market

Lyttelton Farmers' Market. June 2008. Ajr

The Lyttelton Farmers' Market is definitely the best of its kind in Christchurch.

It has a fabulous range of organically grown vegetables, fresh breads and baked goods to die for, handmade chocolates, fresh cheeses and pesto, condiments and coffee.

I went over there again yesterday to introduce my cousin to the quirky community atmosphere that permeates this bustling Saturday morning market on the hill. www.lytteltonfarmersmarket.co.nz

Gothic Reflections

The Arts Centre, Christchurch. May 2008. Ajr

I was never going to be able to walk past this glorious set of reflections was I?

This large cluster of wonderful Victorian Gothic buildings in the heart of the city was the first home of Canterbury University. Now The Arts Centre, it is one of the most visited places in Christchurch and the weekend markets are always a favourite with visitors to town.