Southern Bounty

Stewart Island is New Zealand’s third largest island – a place of unspoiled beauty that sits 30 kilometres off the bottom of the South Island’s coast, across the wild waters of Foveaux Strait. Surprisingly, it is similar in size to Singapore and only 1% of the island is inhabited. The first time I visited the island – around ten years ago – I was amazed by its balmy climate. It can get cold of course, but it much less so than most people imagine. I was back there again in February and I had three days of perfect weather. It was great to have the time to roam about with my camera, exploring accessible parts of the island I hadn’t visited previously. And it’s always fun to hang out around the wharf – you’re never short of good photo opportunities on any wharf but at Stewart Island’s wharf, the action never stops.

It’s the only berthing place for the ferry that shuttles people to and from the South Island; its where the tourist vessels tie up; and it’s home to the numerous fishing vessels that frequent these waters. I got these shots of one of the crayfishing boats coming in to tie up. I was attracted to the rusty cray pots set against the brilliant blue-green water – lovely! The waters all around the island are incredibly clear and clean and most of the island’s population (around 360) are involved in either commercial fishing of some sort, or tourism. Given that so much of the island is now dedicated to Rakiura National Park (our newest national park), it’s also a magnet for hikers, bird watchers, and general adventurers. www.stewartisland.co.nz

A Feast For a King

Turangi. April 2009. Ajr One of my loveliest finds on my recent Frommers New Zealand road trip was River Birches - a gorgeous hideaway on the banks of the Tongariro River. We all know the Tongariro is a fishermen's paradise and River Birches owner, former New Yorker and now Bangkok-based Jason Bleibtreu has kitted the place out with river-cams, so fishing guests can see what's happening in all the river's hot-spots without ever having to leave the lodge's comforts - unless they want to actually fish of course. The best thing of all though, you don't have to be a fisherman to indulge yourself here. It's the perfect romantic getaway, the ideal skier's base, a perfect retreat of any kind. And the meals? Divine. This was the starter I enjoyed on my night there - poached figs stuffed with goat's cheese and wrapped in proscuitto. And that was just the beginning. To see River Birches in much more depth and to meet the host, click on River Birches and Jason Bleibtreu in the label line below this post. www.riverbirches.co.nz

The Big One

GORE

In Southland

Prides itself on Being

The Brown Trout Capital of the World

Fishermen's Paradise

Image supplied by River Birches

This is another gorgeous photograph - from a great perspective - sent to me by the team at River Birches, which I wrote about here a couple of weeks ago. It was taken on the North Island’s Tongariro River, which is well known for being one of the best trout fishing sites in the world. River Birches provides beautiful accommodation just a stone's throw from the fishing action. www.riverbirches.co.nz

Welcome to River Birches

The Bleibtreu Family. Image Supplied by River Birches

Former New Yorker, Jason Bleibtreu and his wife, Rebeca (from El Salvador), visited New Zealand in 2003 and fell in love with it. For that we can be truly grateful because this globetrotting pair were so enamoured of our little country that they were inspired to create River Birches, a classy retreat on the lower reaches of the North Island’s Tongariro River, which is world famous for its fly fishing. With just three gorgeous rooms, easy access to all the area’s best fishing spots, superb cuisine and all the peace and tranquillity you could wish for, River Birches should be marked into everyone’s travel plans. “Hip without Hype,” is how Jason describes it – and he and Rebeca should know because, as former journalists working in some of the world’s most volatile spots, they’ve literally spent thousands of nights in hotel rooms. They met in Central America during their coverage of conflict there; and then, in the 1990s they moved to Cambodia to cover the implementation of the Paris Peace Accords, which brought warring Cambodian factions together. Then there were three years in Hanoi, where they opened the first US TV bureau in Vietnam since the US-Vietnam war; and these days they’re based in Bangkok, where they own a television equipment rental company, which deploys gear as far afield as New Zealand, Peru, Ethiopa and throughout Asia. Interior Images by Deiderich van Heyningen To create River Birches, they worked with architect, David Page of the award-winning Page Henderson practice in Te Puke, taking out first place in the 2007 NZ Institute of Architects Awards. Since they opened the doors in 2006, there has been a steady stream of satisfied customers – “and they’re not all fishermen,” says Jason. “We get a lot of people who just come to chill out.” And with lodge managers Anthea Tidswell and her husband, Bill on hand to indulge guests, it’s easy to see why Travel & Leisure magazine included River Birches in its list of top hotels, resorts and spa in 2007. www.riverbirches.co.nz

HOOKED!

Jason Bleibtreu fishing the Major Jones Pool, Tongariro River. Images supplied by River Birches

You don’t have to be a fisherman to enjoy River Birches, but if you ARE a fisherman, you’ll think you’ve landed in seventh heaven. Located near Turangi – the trout fishing capital of the world - at the bottom of Lake Taupo, this small boutique lodge is truly a fisher’s paradise. Three renowned fishing pools – Major Jones, Breakfast and Hydro – are literally steps from the lodge’s back gate and a tackle room stores high quality fishing gear and waders available to guests. On top of that, there’s a Rivercam, which shows all three pools throughout the day and lodge staff can recommend the best fishing guides. Lodge owner, Jason Bleibtreu, a keen fisherman himself, says: “We established a weather station beside the webcam to show current temperature, wind direction and speed. This allows keen fishermen to check out the conditions from the comfort of their own computer and they can then decide at a moment’s notice, to head to River Birches.” The Tongariro River (above) is the epicentre of trout fishing. “People come here from all over the world just to fish these waters,” Jason adds. www.riverbirches.co.nz

Whitebaiters at Work

Waihao whitebaiters. Nov. 2008. Ajr

I've never quite understood what all the fuss is about when it comes to whitebait. I always find these tiny, transluscent slithers of fish a complete disappointment. However, after watching a big group of whitebaiters at work at the mouth of the Waihao River, south of Waimate two days ago, I think it might be more about the act of gathering than any spectacular taste. I can relate to that and certainly, spending a day in this wild, windswept coastal environment must be invigorating indeed.

Taking the Bait

Whitebaiting, Avon River, Christchurch. August 2008. Ajr.

After prowling around dark car park buildings yesterday, accosting whitebait fishermen on the banks of the Avon River seemed mild and almost decent by comparison. There was a little stumbling embarassment the first time I asked “Do you come here often” – given that I was interviewing for a feature on urban whitebaiters rather than testing my pick-up lines – but we got through that with a coy giggle and moved on to the ins and outs of fishing for these strange, transparent little juvenile fish that are considered by many to be the ultimate delicacy. The whitebait season started last week and while the fishermen aren’t out in their droves yet, I managed to find a few good interview subjects tucked into the weedy cover of the river banks. And like all good fishermen, they came complete with tall stories, fishing yarns and a few good laughs. It was a great way to spend a morning.