Pen-y-bryn - A Southern Beauty

I’m a sucker for old homesteads and when I first encountered Pen-y-Bryn, in Oamaru back in the late 90s, it stayed with me. It was a B&B then. Now it’s upscaled somewhat and under the ownership of James Glucksman (above left) and James Boussy (above right) (aka ‘the Jameses’), it’s become a beautiful heritage retreat where you can sink back into the Victorian comforts of this Category 1 listed beauty.

As you can see from the above aerial image, it’s no small cottage. In fact, it’s one of the largest single storied homes in the South Island and with a massive 9,000 square feet in the main buildings, there’s plenty of room to hide away in a quiet, restful corner. The home was built in 1889 for one John Bulleid (1851-1910) and was designed by the firm of Forrester & Lemon. Pen-y-bryn is Welsh for ‘top of the hill’ and the homestead sits above the town of Oamaru with excellent views of the town, ocean and mountains.

It’s had just five owners in its life. After John Bulleid died, his wife, Fanny moved out and John’s son, John Maurice took over. He spent a lot of time redesigning things and making additions before selling to James McDiarmid, the Mayor of Oamaru in 1922. He and his family were in residence for 73 years before it was sold and refurbished as a lodge in the 1990w. The current owners, the two Jameses, bought it in 2010 and have revamped it into elegant lodge accommodation for ten people. Born in the United States, both have lived and travelled all over the world.

James Glucksman had a career in international management consulting and healthcare for more than 20 years, living and working in more than 40 countries. He’s fluent in Russian and Chinese and has a good working knowledge of French, Spanish and German, as well as “some limited Japanese and Hungarian.” All handy in Oamaru I’m sure! :-) James Boussy meanwhile, trained as a dentist and practised in United States for 15 years before moving his practice to Beijing. They’re both passionate about food and wine and you’re guaranteed amazing meals at Pen-y-bryn.

As big as it is, the house has retained a lovely sense of ‘family home’ and it retains many of its original features including leadlight glass panels,  an original 1888 china cabinet, Italian chandeliers bought by the Bulleid family during their European travels, ornate carved furniture and paintings.  The suspended plaster ceiling in the dining room was commissioned by John Bulleid in Florence and shipped to Oamaru in wooden crates.

It also has a large billiard room featuring a billiard table that was built in 1915 for the New Zealand Government. On receipt of three tables ordered for parliament, it was found only two would fit, thus the third table was purchased by James McDiarmid and installed at Pen-y-bryn.

The stained glass windows above the west windows are copies of the windows in the English home of Alfred Lord Tennyson. The homestead has numerous other fascinating historical stories and features – including the fact that the gardens were originally designed by renowned colonial landscaper, Alfred Buxton – but by far the best way to appreciate them, is to visit, stay and discover them for yourself. www.penybryn.co.nz

Niramaya - The Ultimate Tropical Retreat

When I flew from Melbourne to Cairns back on September 10, and then drove on up to Port Douglas, I was almost crippled with the pain of an injured back and dosed to the eyeballs with painkillers. But looking down on the vibrant blue of the tropical ocean and the coconut palms arching over pristine white beaches, I felt confident things were improving – and by the time my cousin drove me through the gates of Niramaya Villas & Spa, I knew I deserved the luxury haven that was unfolding before me.

Niramaya is a Sanskrit word I believe. I was told what it means but I’ve lost my important notebook, filled with just this sort of travel detail. I vaguely remember something like ‘peace’ and ‘calm’ - but as far as I was concerned at the time, when I opened the front gate to my villa, it meant ‘God, I’m glad to be here!’ I never wavered from that first impression throughout my five days at this divine retreat.

Set on 15 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds, Niramaya’s Asian-inspired architecture (think Balinese-style pavilions), sets you up for a tropical indulgence you’ll remember long after the event. Designed by Grounds Kent Architects ( http://www.gkaperth.com/ ) and opened back in 2006 as Bale Port Douglas, Niramaya is just a short stroll from Four Mile Beach. In my opinion, it reigns supreme as the classiest resort environment in Port Douglas – and believe me there are plenty to choose from. I visited several others while I was in Port Douglas and while each had their charm, none came close to the level of personal comfort provided by Niramaya.

Every villa – and there are four different styles – is like a home away from home, only better. They all have covered pavilions, outdoor barbecue and lounge areas and, best of all, your very own plunge pool. This in addition to the main swimming complex located at the centre of the resort. Doors slide open to beautiful views over water-lily-filled lakes; lush tropical plants and colourful exotic flowers droop lusciously over pergolas; and plush day beds lie in wait after a day exploring nearby Port Douglas village.

It’s hard not to sound like a cliché – or a travel brochure – when you write about a place like Niramaya but the truth is, it really *is* as good as the pictures – better even; because when you’re there, you meet fellow travellers and a staff determined to make your stay as blissful as possible. It’s close to the heart of busy Port Douglas village yet just far enough away, and surrounded by tropical forest, so that it remains a peaceful retreat. I know I was sorry to have to leave. It didn’t fix my back incidentally, but it sure as heck made the pain easier to deal with. I’d go back in a flash. www.niramaya.com.au            

Waiheke Retreat

Waiheke Island is a small paradise just 35 minutes from downtown Auckland - a place of white-sand beaches, lush native bush, green farmland, top wineries, vineyards and excellent cafes and restaurants. It's there, at Blackpool Beach at Huruhi Bay, that Keith and Marilyn Graham have established Breakfast on the Beach, a modern retreat that makes a perfect base for island exploration.

Four large, airy guest suites - all with ensuite bathrooms - are just 30-metres from the peaceful beachfront and there's a large guest lounge at your disposal, along with pushbikes, sea kayaks, golf clubs and swimming gear.

Breakfast on the Beach can also be book exclusively for special occasions - everything from weddings and corporate events to birthdays or black-tie dinners.

www.breakfastonthebeach.co.nz

A Canterbury Icon

This is Otahuna Lodge in the spring with its petticoat of yellow daffodils spread wide to welcome guests. Last spring, on September 4th, Otahuna sustained extensive damage following the 7.1 earthquake that shook the region. They closed the doors to their exclusive accommodation for several months while repairs were undertaken - and just as well, because that earthquake strengthening is credited with saving this iconic building when the even more devastating 6.3 earthquake struck on February 22nd. The lodge is once again closed for repairs, but is due to open in time for the New Zealand winter - very soon. Keep an eye on their website - www.otahuna.co.nz - for updated details because a stay in this divine 1895 mansion just 20-minutes out of the city, is a rare treat indeed. It's one of the grandest homesteads in the country and the level of craftsmanship and architectural detail is awe-inspiring.

Experiencing the French "Art de Vivre."

The Boutique Reception

The Lobby Lounge

All Images Courtesy of Sofitel Queenstown

Sofitel Queenstown Hotel & Spa opened in 2005 as the town's original 5-star hotel and after a $2-million upgrade in 2010, it's now looking sparklier and more sumptuous than ever. The whole ground floor has had a significant makeover and in addition to the classy new boutique check-in area, the Left Bank Cafe has opened its doors for breakfast and lunch in charming Parisian style. There's an antique Steinway piano in the foyer and Auckland designer, Stewart Harris of the award-winning design agency, Martin Hughes, had paid homage to Sofitel's French origins with a glamorous black on white scheme that's also associated with the fine fashion houses of Chanel and Dior.

Penthouse Suite Penthouse Lounge

Superior Suite

I've always been a fan of the Sofitel's elegant rooms.

There's an uncluttered calmness to them and the sensual, orchid-filled bathrooms (complete with LCD screens over the bathtub) are a perfect place to wind down after a day of Queenstown adventures.

Left Bank Cafe

Vie Restaurant

The other new addition, Left Bank Cafe, is named after that hallowed haunt of artists, writer and philosophers on the Seine. It's a smart sidewalk concept cafe that seats 70, part open French-kitchen and part parisian tea room in style. The walls feature 1930s-1950s art and the vintage butcher's table, window shutters and mosaic floor tiles were all shipped out from France. This is where you can start the day with a Moet & Chandon Champange breakfast, where you can sample the waffle and crepe menu, the breakfast buffet, or an a la carte menu. Lunch is equally tempting - roasted portabella mushrooms, Akaroa salmon risotte with parmesan and lemon or seared calamari to name a few. The in-house restaurant Vie takes over for dinner. Vie will be transformed this year as part of the second stage of the hotel's upgrade, which also includes the addition of a new bar, a private club lounge and a designer gymnasium.

Le Spa Steam Room

Le Spa Therapy Room

The new gymnasium will be the perfect partner for Le Spa - that gloriously indulgent, moody, suite of rooms that include cedar wood Jacuzzi, a traditional Hammam steam room, a Far infra red room and a range of Maori rituals and signature European massage and beauty treatments. Well why not? If you've come this far south, you deserve it.

Sofitel Queenstown Overlooking Duke Street

Sofitel Queenstown is New Zealand's only Sofitel Hotel.

And Sofitel is the only French luxury hotel brand with a presence on five continents, with 130 addresses in almost 40 countries. This equates to over 30,000 luxurious rooms worldwide.

It's plush all the way.

Treat yourself!

Let me make it easy for you - just click the email address below.

reservations@sofitelqueenstown.com

www.sofitel.com

Staying in Style - Peppertree Lodge

Blenheim's Peppertree Lodge is named after the Pepper trees (Schinus molle) that line the driveway to this lovely Edwardian villa. Built in 1901, it sits back from the road at the south entrance to Blenheim, surrounded by waves of grapevines that have made the region famous.

I called into the Peppertree on my recent travels, to chat with owners, Werner and Heidi. It was mid-winter but the Peppertree was warm and inviting, each of its five guest rooms glowing. The home is set on 10acres and since settling in New Zealand, Swiss businessman Werner, has studied viticulture and now tends his own tiny boutique winery and olive grove at the front of the property. The large gardens are filled with large vegetable gardens and orchards, a small selection of cows and sheep; and together, Werner and Heidi produce their own olive oil, wine and assorted preserves. Each vintage of their Peppertree Chardonnay is labelled with distinctive labels, produced by leading local and New Zealand artists including Wellington's Michael Fowler and Blenheim artists, Clarry Neam and Betty Eaton.

Heidi has a background in hotel management and airline service in Switzerland and given that she and Werner have travelled extensively themselves, they know just when to leave their guests alone. Each of their five rooms is a large private retreat and guests have individual views into different parts of the garden. My pick is the large William Morris room (above), which features William Morris fabrics and a large bathroom, complete with clawfoot bath and a separate fireplace. And personally, I can't imagine anything nicer than stretching out in that bath with a good book and a glass of house Chardonnay, with the fireplace crackling a few feet away. www.thepeppertree.co.nz

Two Rooms

Mollies Auckland - www.mollies.co.nz The Presidential Suite - Hilton Lake Taupo - www.hilton.com/laketaupo

Langham Luxury

Auckland's Langham Hotel is one of my favourites.

There's an extravagance about the place that suits my self-indulgent nature.

Rooms are intimate and richly decorated. Barolo Italian Restaurant is a culinary heaven. A Langham afternoon tea pays homage to tradition Chuan Spa is a roof-top shrine to pampering And service throughout is impeccable http://www.langhamhotels.com/

Top Spot - Hilton Lake Taupo

The Hilton Lake Taupo has recently been named Best New Hotel in the World - a wonderful accolade for a terrific hotel that blends old and new.

Large, amazingly well-priced, modern apartments have sprung up beside the original heritage building, which began life as the Terraces Hotel in 1889. It's had a number of revamps in recent years but it reaches maturity under Hilton management. That unmistakeable 'Hilton chic' now hovers over every space and suites and apartments have big balconies and either wide lake views, or more intimate views over the thermal valley and Taupo Hot Springs Spa below and to the rear of the hotel. It's located to the south of Taupo township on the Napier-Taupo Highway and as an aside, the bathrooms are divine. www.laketaupohilton.com

All photographs courtesy of Hilton Lake Taupo.