A Note From the Road

As of Monday, I will be travelling the North and South Islands of New Zealand for two months, researching and writing a brand new travel guide, Frommers New Zealand Day by Day 1st Edition. This is going to be a slightly crazy time and I'm not going to have the same amount of time to devote to long posts for this and my other blog, Introducing Maori Lifestyles.

So.......just for a while......my entries may be more photographic than excessively verbal, which may of course, come as a relief to some. So bear with me and I hope you'll enjoy my photographic journey around New Zealand. www.frommers.com

Throwing Yourself Off a Bridge

My fear of heights is well documented on this blog. Basically, I'm a pathetic wimp who hates high places - especially when there's water down below. It's not the water I'm afraid of though - it's the ridiculous distance you have to fall to get to it. So it was with great relief that I arrived at Thrillseekers Bungy not too many weeks after leg surgery and therefore had a very valid excuse for not jumping off the 135 year old, 35-metre high bridge that spans the pretty Waiau River near Hanmer Springs.

I've been offered numerous free bungy jumps in the course of researching and writing the travel guide, Frommers New Zealand and suffice to say, I have politely declined them all. I did however, on a previous occasion, manage to get out to the centre jump-off point on this bridge. That felt like a real achievement to me but the management did not think me brave enough to warrant the T-shirt. On this visit, I was happy to stand on a distant bank and capture the action on film. That's much more my style - I just wasn't as fast as I could have been. One observation I did make though - for anyone nervous about taking their first bungy jump, the Thrillseekers bungy is the perfect choice. At just 35-metres it's a mild and manageable introduction to the fine art of throwing yourself off a bridge. Compare it for instance, to the grand-daddy of New Zealand bungy jumps, Queentown's Nevis Highwire at 134 metres. I won't of course, be taking my own advice. I fully intend to spend the rest of my life with my feet firmly on the ground - except when I'm lying comfortably in bed of course. www.thrillseekers.co.nz

Have Jet, Will Scream

When you're racing toward a rock wall at 90 kilometres per hour in just 6 inches of water, you can be forgiven for screaming.

That's the deal when you leap aboard the Thrillseekers Jet, near Hanmer Springs. Me? I'm a speed junkie, so I ALWAYS love jet boats. They make so much more sense to me than throwing yourself off a bridge attached to a bungy cord...... but more about that in a day or two.

In my role as the writer of the travel guide Frommers New Zealand, I've been lucky enough to enjoy many jet boat rides. It's part of the job after all. But until recently, I'd never taken the Thrillseekers Jet up the very pretty Waiau River. The ride itself may not be as dramatic as some I've been on but our driver was terrific and the scenery stunning. I love the South Island's braided rivers and there's something awe-inspiring and unbelieveable about boats that skim across just a few inches of water. You can literally look over the edge and see the river bottom. And then there's the famous 360-degree spin - a feature of jetboat technology...technology I might add, that was invented in New Zealand. If you were ever sitting there thinking it was all too easy, then the spin is sure to wake you up in a hurry. www.thrillseekers.co.nz

Out and About With the Ronnies

Christchurch. July 2009. Ajr

I took time out from writing the Frommers manuscript yesterday afternoon and went roaming around the city (Christchurch) with my camera. It’s been almost six weeks since I’ve taken a photo – almost six weeks since I unchained myself from the computer in fact and actually ventured out in any real way at all! I felt like a freed bird and although the weather was grey, gloomy and totally freezing, like the wayward prunus tree I found in full blossom on Oxford Terrace, I was brimming over with unseasonal excitement. I started at Christchurch Art Gallery – they have after all, been teasing those of us on Twitter with shamefully vague images of the new Ronnie van Hout show, “Who Goes There?” I was determined to see for myself. So you may ask, who does go there? Well, in short, LOTS of Ronnies. In addition – aliens in pyjamas, a divine little miniature Bananaman, cast resin fruit, a rather disturbing ‘Failed Robot’ and strange, shadowy figures standing in doorways. Ronnie van Hout was born in Christchurch, now lives in Melbourne and was awarded an Arts Foundation of New Zealand Laureate Award in 2005, for his contribution to New Zealand art. The show includes sculptural works created over the last ten years, many of which give you a little chill down the spine as they tug as some half-remembered childhood nightmare. There’s an urge to move quickly on (plenty of viewers did), coupled with that bizarre horror fixation we have that makes us want to peep through our fingers one more time. Yet oddly, the works are also witty and funny, sleek and so beautifully made you can’t help but be drawn in. The one that is still eating away at my brain – well…two works are actually…the fantastic tiny Bananaman, who I wanted to rescue from his glass case and bring home – he was holding a sign that said ‘Help Me’ after all; and the other, the bizarre-yet-wonderful “End Dolls,” a collection of nine identically-dressed little Ronnies (very realistic self-portraits) in little wooden boxes. Are they coffins? Are they the little boxes retail dolls are displayed in? Are they price tags on his multiple arms? Or Mortuary tags? Ronnie himself (the miniature Ronnie that is), has a disturbingly lifelike quality to him that made me want to laugh and run at the same time. I suspect I might have nightmares tonight but at least if I do, I suspect I’ll wake up laughing.... or maybe not? To top off the exhibition, I kept ‘bumping into Ronnie’ all over town – his ‘Failed Robot’ makes the best art poster I’ve seen in ages. http://www.christchurchartgallery.org.nz/

Under Construction - In the Absence of Words

Auckland. April 2009. Ajr When I was in Auckland in April, I spent a week at the Duxton Hotel in Greys Avenue and every day I walked down the hill past this construction site. When I couldn't contain myself a minute longer, I finally stopped and photographed the afternoon light catching at the yellow wrap and filtering through the autumn leaves. It wasn't an earth-shattering moment but it was a pretty one. And on that note, I feel bound to apologise to regular readers of my blog, who may be thinking I have become superficial and visual, that my postings are lacking substance of late. That's because I'm still neck-deep in the writing of the Frommers New Zealand 6th edition manuscript and I simply don't have the usual amount of time to devote to my two blogs. However, I DO hope to have the travel guide completed within the next two to three weeks and then I'll be back to my usual wordy self.

Off the Rails

Auckland. April 2009. Ajr When I was in Auckland recently, updating the inner city transport systems at the Britomart Transport Centre for the latest edition of Frommers New Zealand, I went down into the railway system to see how things were working. And, true to form, I couldn't resist a photograph or ten. I loved the way the neon, the lights, the people, the architecture were all interacting, so as I descended on the escalator, I took these photos. I carried on and took a few more once I got to the bottom - UNTIL I was tapped on the shoulder by a security guard, who told me photographs were not allowed. I asked him why not - I was only photographing the lights after all. "Because they're not," he said. I quickly decided he was a plonker. I mean...was he worried I was a terrorist or something? Ridiculous! He could at least have given me a legitimate reason. But I loved the lights anyway and came away quite happy.

A Feast For a King

Turangi. April 2009. Ajr One of my loveliest finds on my recent Frommers New Zealand road trip was River Birches - a gorgeous hideaway on the banks of the Tongariro River. We all know the Tongariro is a fishermen's paradise and River Birches owner, former New Yorker and now Bangkok-based Jason Bleibtreu has kitted the place out with river-cams, so fishing guests can see what's happening in all the river's hot-spots without ever having to leave the lodge's comforts - unless they want to actually fish of course. The best thing of all though, you don't have to be a fisherman to indulge yourself here. It's the perfect romantic getaway, the ideal skier's base, a perfect retreat of any kind. And the meals? Divine. This was the starter I enjoyed on my night there - poached figs stuffed with goat's cheese and wrapped in proscuitto. And that was just the beginning. To see River Birches in much more depth and to meet the host, click on River Birches and Jason Bleibtreu in the label line below this post. www.riverbirches.co.nz

The Mean Streets

Auckland. April 2009 Ajr I was so overwhelmed by photographic opportunities in Auckland that I missed a lot of their cool street art. This is one work I did capture however - just off Karangahape Road, where it must be said, there's no shortage of grafitti. I'm contemplating a photographic week in Auckland after I've finished my current mission - the writing of the 6th edition of Frommers New Zealand, which is due for completion August 1st!

A Winter Afternoon in Dunedin

Dunedin. May 2009. Ajr

I've just spent the last two days of my 2009 Frommers New Zealand Road Trip in one of my favourite New Zealand cities - Dunedin. I raced about like a person possessed, checking everything I needed to check (nearly), meeting people and taking photographs. By late afternoon yesterday, the sun was still shining but the temperature had (characteristically) plummetted, creating a weird calmness and a soft, shimmering haze over the harbour. I took these shots from the overbridge at Roslyn on Maori Hill at about 4pm.

A Many-Pillowed Sleep

Picton. April 2009. Ajr

Half the fun of updating Frommers New Zealand every two years is discovering new and luscious places to rest my weary head. This was one of them - the very luscious Escape to Picton in....yes, you guessed it....Picton! And as you can see, I was spoiled for choice in the pillow department. www.escapetopicton.co.nz

Sounds Lovely!

Picton. April 2009. Ajr

It was a perfect day when I arrived in Picton on April 10th - the first day of this year's Frommers New Zealand road trip. Everyone was out enjoying late autumn sunshine - eating icecreams even; sunbathing even! The waters in Marlborough Sounds were calm and electric blue and I couldn't have wished for a better start to my adventures.

An Adventure Worth Having

Images Supplied by Dart River Safaris

In the course of writing the travel guide Frommers New Zealand, I think I've been on almost every sort of boat there is - from steamships and yachts to cruise vessels, fishing boats and jet boats. One of the most memorable adventures MUST be Dart River Safaris, who whisk you into the remote reaches of the Dart River, 40 minutes from Queenstown. If you get the chance, don't say no! www.dartriver.co.nz http://www.frommers.com/

Bright Lights, Big City

Auckland and the Sky Tower at Sunset. Image Supplied by Tourism Auckland 2007

Dare I confess to the fact that the bright lights of the big city are taking it out of me?

I feel like I've flown to Jamaica and back!

That's the lot of a travel guide writer - early starts, late nights, rushing about like a headless chicken, eating too much, not sleeping enough, writing long hours and generally fighting back exhaustion. Call that glamorous do you?

Paddling with Wildlife

Images Supplied by Kaikoura Kayaks

Of all the physical adventures I've tried in the course of writing the travel guide, Frommers New Zealand, kayaking is near the very top of my list of favourites. There are so many great stretches of water in this country that are perfect for kayaking - though few are richer in wildlife and unexpected surprises than the Kaikoura Peninsular. If you paddle out with the team from Kaikoura Kayaks you'll likely be joined - very quickly - by nosey-parker New Zealand Fur Seals. They love to join in the fun and you can get some great photographs. http://www.kaikourakayaks.co.nz/

Peninsula Retreat

Carrington, Karikari Peninsula, Far North. Image supplied by Heritage Hotels.

Many years ago – and I mean around thirty years ago – when I lived in Auckland, we holidayed at Coopers Beach in the Far North. It was a tiny little beach settlement then – a sprinkling of summer holiday baches, a camping ground, a store and not much else. That was the beauty of it – that and the beautiful, remote, white sand beaches that you had entirely to yourself. The best of all were the stunning sandy stretches on Karikari Peninsula, a tiny finger of land that poked out off the end of Matai Bay. The beaches were sublime and nobody lived there. It’s a different story today. When I travelled there in 1999 for the first edition of Frommers New Zealand, I was staggered at how built-up the whole area had become. As disappointed as I still am that ‘remote’ and ‘unpopulated’ are a thing of the past, it is nice to see beautiful retreats like Carrington springing up to accommodate the well-heeled visitor. Set on a 3,000 acre estate with 4 kilometres of secluded beach, it comes complete with 900 acres of restored wetland, a working cattle farm and New Zealand’s northernmost vineyard and winery. (They had their first vintage in 2003 and the new, state-of-the-art winery was completed in 2004). I’m heading up there again soon – for Frommers 6th edition – and I hope to check out that 4-kilometre secluded beach – if only in the interests of nostalgia. It’s not a bad way to escape a Christchurch winter. www.heritagehotels.co.nz www.frommers.com

To Sleep Perchance To Dream

Sofitel Queenstown. Images supplied by Sofitel Queenstown. 2007

As I launch myself into the massive task of writing Frommers New Zealand 6th edition it's fair to say I have hotels on my mind - especially bedrooms and bathrooms. I'm very picky about hotel bathrooms - bedrooms too, although by the time I get to any hotel bedroom I'm usually so tired I'm way past caring what I actually sleep on, or in. But, with gorgeous rooms like these at Queenstown's super-chic Sofitel, it's also fair to say I'm usually very spoiled. www.frommers.com www.sofitel.co.nz

Fish By Design

Images by Diederich van Heyningen; Supplied by River Birches

When I'm reveiwing accommodation properties for inclusion in Frommers New Zealand - and I'm just starting the 6th edition now - I'm always looking for places that set themselves apart, not just in their comforts and service levels but also through creativity and individuality. I like it when owners go the extra mile and think about the small things - because as we all know, it's often the small things that count most. So naturally I was delighted to discover these gorgeous little hand-stitched fish 'swimming' around the edges of table napkins at the very lovely River Birches, which offers stylish accommodation on the edge of that prime fishing location, the Tongariro River, near Turangi in the central North Island. www.riverbirches.co.nz

The Luxury X-Factor

Eichardt's Private Hotel, Queenstown. Images Supplied.

As the writer of the New York-produced travel guide, Frommers New Zealand, I am frequently asked what my favourite place to stay in New Zealand is. It’s a hard question to answer because there are several and at the top-end luxury level, every candidate, every luxury lodge has its own character and style; and they all sit in such dramatic landscapes it’s hard to play favourites. That said, one I keep coming back to, one that FOR ME, has something a little special, is Eichardt's Private Hotel in Queenstown. It’s small – just five suites; it’s classy; and it’s smack in the middle of the action – right on the waterfront in an historic building at the end of the mall. I have lasting memories of a luxurious possum fur-covered bed fit of a king, a huge marble bathroom and a beautiful interior with a friendly, intimate, home-like scale - it’s like being a pampered guest in a very posh home rather than staying in an impersonal hotel room – and yes, even some of the best hotel rooms can still feel impersonal. Eichardt's is all the better for its smaller size and the fact that it is so beautiflly embellished with antiques, art and collectibles makes it a visual feast as well. That always wins me over. www.eichardtshotel.co.nz

Going Bush

Treetops Lodge & Wilderness Estate, Rotorua. Photos supplied by Navigate Oceania Collection.

The last time I stayed at Treetops Lodge near Rotorua it was mid-winter 2005 and I had the entire lodge to myself. I was half way through writing the 4th edition of Frommers New Zealand and when I drove down the long, bush-lined driveway, it felt like I was driving into the depths of a Lord of the Rings set. That’s the beauty of Treetops – it feels like it’s a million miles from anywhere, yet it’s just 30 minutes from central Rotorua. Mind you, once you’re tucked up in one of the luxurious bush-clad suites, there’s almost NO inclination to go anywhere. I know I was hoping everyone would forget I was there! It’s one of my favourite New Zealand lodges. www.treetops.co.nz www.navigateoceania.com

A Small Book of Rugs

"A Small Book of Rugs" Ajr. 2007

Every so often my seemingly divergent passions for words, travel, pattern, colour, books, art and people come together in one happy little package. This is one example – a book I made last year after my Frommers New Zealand research trip. It’s called “A Small Book of Rugs,” and was inspired by my stay at Pencarrow in Queenstown. Pencarrow’s owners, the marvellously hospitable Bill and Kari Moers, have one of the most beautiful collections of Persian rugs I’ve ever seen. I’ve never been inclined to purchase Asian rugs myself – there’s something about all that pattern that makes me dizzy and fidgety; but when I walked into their upmarket B&B last year, I was blown away by the sheer mass and diversity of the imagery in their rug collection. I was transfixed and I kept thinking about them for weeks afterwards – hence this little book production – a fiddly labour of love that took me weeks to execute …..light relief to shutting myself away for months on end to write the 5th edition of Frommers New Zealand. www.pencarrow.net