Pen-y-bryn - A Southern Beauty

I’m a sucker for old homesteads and when I first encountered Pen-y-Bryn, in Oamaru back in the late 90s, it stayed with me. It was a B&B then. Now it’s upscaled somewhat and under the ownership of James Glucksman (above left) and James Boussy (above right) (aka ‘the Jameses’), it’s become a beautiful heritage retreat where you can sink back into the Victorian comforts of this Category 1 listed beauty.

As you can see from the above aerial image, it’s no small cottage. In fact, it’s one of the largest single storied homes in the South Island and with a massive 9,000 square feet in the main buildings, there’s plenty of room to hide away in a quiet, restful corner. The home was built in 1889 for one John Bulleid (1851-1910) and was designed by the firm of Forrester & Lemon. Pen-y-bryn is Welsh for ‘top of the hill’ and the homestead sits above the town of Oamaru with excellent views of the town, ocean and mountains.

It’s had just five owners in its life. After John Bulleid died, his wife, Fanny moved out and John’s son, John Maurice took over. He spent a lot of time redesigning things and making additions before selling to James McDiarmid, the Mayor of Oamaru in 1922. He and his family were in residence for 73 years before it was sold and refurbished as a lodge in the 1990w. The current owners, the two Jameses, bought it in 2010 and have revamped it into elegant lodge accommodation for ten people. Born in the United States, both have lived and travelled all over the world.

James Glucksman had a career in international management consulting and healthcare for more than 20 years, living and working in more than 40 countries. He’s fluent in Russian and Chinese and has a good working knowledge of French, Spanish and German, as well as “some limited Japanese and Hungarian.” All handy in Oamaru I’m sure! :-) James Boussy meanwhile, trained as a dentist and practised in United States for 15 years before moving his practice to Beijing. They’re both passionate about food and wine and you’re guaranteed amazing meals at Pen-y-bryn.

As big as it is, the house has retained a lovely sense of ‘family home’ and it retains many of its original features including leadlight glass panels,  an original 1888 china cabinet, Italian chandeliers bought by the Bulleid family during their European travels, ornate carved furniture and paintings.  The suspended plaster ceiling in the dining room was commissioned by John Bulleid in Florence and shipped to Oamaru in wooden crates.

It also has a large billiard room featuring a billiard table that was built in 1915 for the New Zealand Government. On receipt of three tables ordered for parliament, it was found only two would fit, thus the third table was purchased by James McDiarmid and installed at Pen-y-bryn.

The stained glass windows above the west windows are copies of the windows in the English home of Alfred Lord Tennyson. The homestead has numerous other fascinating historical stories and features – including the fact that the gardens were originally designed by renowned colonial landscaper, Alfred Buxton – but by far the best way to appreciate them, is to visit, stay and discover them for yourself. www.penybryn.co.nz

Homestead on a Hill

Dunedin. May 2009. Ajr Glendinning House stands proudly on top of Maori Hill in the Dunedin suburb of Roslyn. Built in 1914, this handsome Edwardian gentleman's residence is named after the original owner, successful merchant, Robert Cassels Glendinning, who had it built over a four-year period. Current owners, Sandy Black and Jocelyn Robinson have turned it into a beautiful Bed and Breakfast operation and the two large upstairs guest rooms are the sort of place I like to curl up in and pretend I can stay forever. Jocelyn is a former caterer and she goes to great creative lengths to ensure her visitors leave with fantastic culinary memories. I know I did! www.glendinninghouse.co.nz

Gothic Beauty

Warwick House Images Supplied

I’ve often talked about my passion for old homesteads, so regular readers can imagine how excited I was about a visit to Nelson’s Warwick House. This monstrous three-storied home was built in 1854 and was extended in the 1870s to include three towers, a spiral staircase and a magnificent ballroom overlooking Nelson city. The large wing containing two of the towers and many rooms has since been demolished but the third tower and the ballroom are still intact. One corner of the ballroom in fact, acts as the breakfast room for paying guests each morning. Nick and Jenny Ferrier are the seventh owners. They bought six or seven years ago on their return from Hong Kong, keen to establish a new lifestyle that would keep them in touch with the international community. They’ve spent all the years since renovating the home (which had been turned into flats prior to their arrival), and confess that it’s still a work in progress. They currently have five guest rooms; and their own wing – a huge 8-bedroomed house in its own right – while part of the original house, is completely separate from guest quarters. Once a venue for glamorous entertaining events for leading merchants and politicians, Warwick House was used as a gentlemen’s boarding house in the early 1890s. It’s been home to seven families and Nick and Jenny have met a number of people who grew up there. They’ve also gathered a lovely photographic timeline of the mansion, which is on display in the second-level of the Tower Room. (The lowest level is a wine cellar; the top level part of one of the guest suites). In the process of renovating they have discovered boarded up rooms, original boarded up ceilings and all manner of other treats. “It’s been a labour of love and lots of hard work; but definitely worth it,” says Nick. “We had spent a lot of time living overseas and it’s great that we now enjoy the quieter lifestyle of Nelson without losing touch with people from all over the world.” www.warwickhouse.co.nz

An Inner City Homestead

Orari, Christchurch. April 2009 Ajr

I visited the very gorgeous Orari homestead in Christchurch earlier this week. It's now a central city B&B - and a perfectly-placed one at that; just acorss the road from the Art Gallery - but it still has that wonderful old world charm and scale that comes with older homes. And don't be deceived by this photograph - it's actually HUGE. This is just the front verandah. www.orari.net.nz

Library Architecture

Taitapu, Canterbury. January 2009. Ajr

This is the super cute Tai Tapu Library in the little village of Tai Tapu on the outskirts of Christchurch. It was built in 1932 by Tai Tapu landowner, Sir Heaton Rhodes, who also built the magnificent homestead, Otahuna, which I've featured here previously. It's now a luxury lodge and one of my favourite giant houses in all of New Zealand - Otahuna that is, not the Tai Tapu Library. Click on Otahuna or Homesteads in the index line below and it should appear www.otahuna.co.nz

'Party House' For Auckland's Colonial Elite

Alberton, Mount Albert, Auckland. Image courtesy NZ Historic Places Trust.

Once the centre of an estate that stretched as far as the eye could see, Alberton is a stunning Auckland homestead that grew from a humble farmhouse (built in 1863) into a grand 18-room mansion with Oriental-styled decorative verandahs and towers. It was famous in the 19th century for its balls, hunts, garden parties and music events; and was well known as the ‘party house’ for Auckland’s colonial elite. It became home to Allan Kerr Taylor and his second wife, Sophia (an outspoken advocate for women’s suffrage) and their ten children. Today, much of their original family furniture along with other possessions, including exceptionally rare 19th century wallpaper and Alberton’s original landmark fountain, can be viewed if you make the easy trip into suburban Mount Albert. The mansion was left to the NZ Historic Places Trust in 1972 and later opened to the public. I have clear memories of visiting Alberton thirty years ago when I lived in Auckland – in fact, it might even be responsible for triggering my passion for old homesteads – many of which you can see if you click on Homesteads in the label line below. www.historic.org.nz

Home Sweet Homestead

Huntley House, Riccarton. Feb.2009. Ajr

I’ve made no secret of my passion for old homesteads and this one – Christchurch’s Huntley House – is a beauty. Originally built in 1876 as a family home by one of Christchurch’s early settlers, J.H. Twentyman, it sits at the end of a long tree-enshrouded driveway in Upper Riccarton and is now a beautiful boutique hotel. It’s a shame when these lovely old homes become commercial operations rather than family homes but the one good thing about that is, we can all get to peek inside as a result. And the conversion to hotel has been done beautifully – the homestead is opulent and peaceful and still retains that quintessential homestead feeling. Huntley House. Feb 2009. Ajr And if you get to rest your head on one of their pillows, I’ll be envious. The five upstairs guest suites are enormous and two of them open onto the wisteria-covered upstairs balcony overlooking the large gardens. Two new apartment buildings have also been harmoniously added to the complex giving Huntley House a grand total of 17 rooms. www.huntleyhouse.co.nz

Storybook Architecture

Mona Vale, Christchurch. Jan 2009. Ajr

The Mona Vale Gatehouse (top image) is one of my favourite Christchurch houses. I just adore its almost storybook quality – it’s the sort of pretty little house I dreamed about as a kid. The main Mona Vale homestead, (lower image) was originally called Karewa and was built for Frederick Waymouth in 1899-1900. Designed by Christchurch architect, J.C Maddison in the Arts & Crafts style, it sold to Annie Townend in 1905. It was she who renamed it Mona Vale – after her mother’s home in Tasmania, Australia. She was also responsible for the adding the gorgeous gatehouse. The property is now owned by Christchurch City Council and, set in four hectares of pretty gardens, it is a popular spot open to the public. The gatehouse is rented out as a private home. Both homes have a Category I listing with New Zealand Historic Places Trust.

A Slice of Hawke's Bay Luxury...

Greenhill Lodge, Hawke's Bay. Dec. 2008. Images Supplied.

I’m a sucker for an old homestead, so Greenhill Lodge in Hawke’s Bay is right up my alley. Designed by architect, George Sollitt (1834-1912) it features a grand three-storey central viewing turret, where lodge owners, Neil Barber and Craig Hay have created a small sitting room complete with telescope. The homestead was built by Archibald McLean and was started in 1897. Its many gorgeous features include the grand, wood-panelled billiard room, elaborate hand-painted lead lights, elegant carved archways and now, five elaborate guest suites, each with its own ensuite. The old stables have been converted into a gymnasium and a pool awaits. Greenhill was owned by six generations of the same family and their most esteemed guest was Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother in 1958. The property finally sold in 2001 to Neil and Craig, who have established it as one of Hawke’s Bay’s star properties. www.greenhill.co.nz

Meet the People - 31

Another in the Series Meet the People – Ordinary and Extraordinary New Zealanders Doing Interesting Things – James and Glenice White live in the very gorgeous and historic, Birch Hill homestead, which nestles into the foothills of Mt Thomas, in North Canterbury. Designed by architect, Samuel Hurst Seager and built in 1908, it sits in acres of sweeping lawns and gardens, making it a perfect retreat – which is why the Whites are starting a new venture – the Birch Hill Art Retreat. Starting in March 2009 with an exclusive 10-day painting and sculpture retreat, with accommodation provided at both Birch Hill and nearby Okuku Country Estate (which I featured here earlier this year), the workshops will be run in the new art studio James has built on the site of the homestead’s original blacksmith’s workshop. Well known UK artist, Vince Tutton and South Canterbury artists, Eddie Cook and Judeen McFetrich will tutor the classes and share their experiences of workshops in Spain, Italy and France. James and Glenice also plan to host a series of two-day introductory sculpture and painting courses with lunch provided. As art collectors themselves, the Whites are keen to encourage others and to share the beauty of their historic country property. www.birchhill.co.nz For others in this series, click on Meet the People in the label line below this post.

For Gentlewomen

McLean's Mansion, Christchurch. May 2008. Ajr

Back in 1899-1902 when this massive home was being built for wealthy Scottish immigrant farmer, Allan McLean, it was one of the largest and grandest private properties in Christchurch. It probably still is – although it’s no longer private; it’s currently home to a private tertiary training institute. McLean, a bachelor, built the home for his retirement but only got to live there for five years before he died. It was McLean’s wish that the mansion and his bequest of 220,000 pounds be used to assist “gentlewomen, or women of refinement or education” who had fallen on hard times – so that they might “live under circumstances approximating with those under which they had been brought up.” Oh to be a ‘gentlewoman’ I say! I love this place and one day soon I’m going to pretend to be a tertiary student so I can get a look inside. After all, I’m a woman and I can be gentle.

Pioneer History

Photos: Okains Bay Homestead. 2008 Ajr

When I was in Okains Bay the other day I was lucky enough to visit an old relic of a house where time has stood still. Built for one of the bays early pioneering families, it is currently for sale for the first time since it was built in the 1850s. The outbuildings are all original and the home’s interior is just as its last fulltime owner left it in the late 1970s when she passed away. Since then it has been used as a holiday home by the extended family.
You’d think that alone would have ushered in change but no, to step in here is to step into a time warp. It felt like being marooned back in the 1950s and as I sat there, in total silence, I half expected the owner to come bouncing into the parlour offering me tea and scones. Her vases filled with plastic flowers are still there (miraculously dust-free); her black handbag still stands on the bedroom dressing table. There is a cream glove casually lying on a parlour cabinet, as if she had just rushed home from an outing and torn off her glove in her hurry to get to work in the kitchen. Cabinets are still filled with her china; coats hang in bedroom cupboards and, most bewildering of all, all the chair cushions appeared to have fresh ‘hollows’, as if someone had heard me coming and had jumped up and hidden, leaving their telltale ‘bottom dents’ in the cushions.
For all that, it seemed a happy, restful place – not at all ‘spooky’ in any haunted sense. It felt like a safe house, a house with soul and generations of stories to tell. Sometimes you can just feel that in a place; sometimes that overriding sense of family history is almost palpable.

Riddled With History

And this is where I slept – at the ever-so-dreamy Rowandale Homestead. It’s now home to Luis and Angela - the fifth generation of the Thacker family to reside here – and they’re perfect hosts. Several of their grand rooms are given over to homestead stays and if you’re looking for the ultimate escape, complete with fine food and wine, huge bedrooms, a delicious balcony bathtub, alfresco balcony beds, total silence, magnificent scenery and the chance to explore the nearby historic village, then pack your bags and get yourself there immediately. I fell in love with it. I didn’t want to leave. Built in 1908-1916 to what is purported to be architect Cecil Wood’s largest ever design, it has a Historic Places Trust Category II listing and was constructed from bricks made from onsite clay. Today it oozes character and spirit and, cleverly decorated in an elegant, shabby-chic style, it’s relaxed and sumptuous at the same time – and isn’t that how holidays are supposed to be? http://www.rowandalehomestead.co.nz/

Speaking of Homesteads............

If you’ve got a few spare millions hanging around, you might like to invest in what is considered one of Christchurch’s finest homes – the very beautiful, very English Daresbury, which was designed by the acclaimed architect, Samuel Hurst Seagar and built between 1897 and 1901 for the very lucky George Humphreys. It was the Governor General’s residence in 1940 and 1950 and the Duke of York, King George VI was a guest. I’ve biked past this place on the nearby railway cycle track for years and drooled over every tantalising glimpse. It’s built over three stories and its 50 rooms include four big ground floor reception rooms; and upstairs, at least six bedrooms and five bathrooms. The top level includes a guest suite and entertaining area. Love it. Love it. Love it!

Homestead History

I gave in to my passion for grand old mansions again yesterday and visited Okuku Country Estate, which is tucked into a tight fist of huge trees – including two massive redwoods – 30 minutes from the country town of Rangiora. Much has changed in the fifteen years since I last visited; for a start, there are new owners – Robert and Lorraine Smith – who have turned it into a gorgeous retreat for visiting guests. And what an idyllic hideaway. Built in 1920 (after the original 1860 homestead burnt down in 1917) and inspired by Italian Renaissance style, it oozes character and ‘friendliness.’ Dark downstairs panelling, a huge entry hall, big social spaces, six big guest bedrooms, an indoor swimming pool and 30 acres of beautiful gardens to wander in make it a very tempting weekend getaway. Back in the old days the Ensor family lived a grand old life hosting parties and hunts – with the aid of Chinese servants, who lived in the west wing of the house. It’s one of those lovely old places that seems to have sealed its history into every corner; it’s almost tangible. Gorgeous! www.okukucountryestate.co.nz

Hop On Over

No one will ever be able to convince me that Otahuna isn’t one of the most magnificent houses in New Zealand. It’s my dream home. I adore it. Every inch of its 18,000 square foot, three-storied framework is riddled with history. Built in 1895 for Sir Heaton Rhodes it’s reputedly the finest example of Queen Anne architecture in Australasia and it’s now an Historic Places Trust Category 1 listed property. Who can blame Hall Cannon and Miles Refo for tossing in their New York jobs, buying Otahuna and turning it into one of New Zealand’s finest luxury lodges? And what better way to kick of Easter 2008 than joining Hall and Miles for Otahuna’s First Annual East Hunt & Lunch? When I first got the invitation I pictured horses, hounds and terrified rabbits. It wasn’t until a week later that the penny dropped and it became clear that we would only be hunting easter eggs. Creative guests turned up in Easter bonnets; there were bunny's ears aplenty, a divine lunch in the timber pannelled ballroom; and an egg hunt complete with straw lined baskets. How easily we all slipped in to the childish delight of it all. And as it turned out, the only bunny in sight was five-and-a-half feet tall and wearing gumboots. http://www.otahuna.co.nz/

To Market, To Market

I can think of few nicer ways to while away a lazy autumn Saturday than indulging in treats at Canterbury Farmers’ Market, which is held every week in the grounds of Riccarton House in Christchurch. Farmers’ Markets have taken off in New Zealand – most bigger towns now have one – and they’re a great place to pick up fresh and handmade goodies – everything, in this case, from organic vegetables, fruit, flowers, local olive oils, preserves, breads, French and local cheeses, fresh organic meats, free range eggs, local chocolates, delicious little cup cakes and much much more. Factor in live music, good coffee, a streamside setting, a nearby bush walk filled with native birds and 600-year-old trees and one of Christchurch’s finest historic homes (built in 1856) and you have the perfect autumn morning. Best treat of the day: the Portuguese egg tart with coffee. http://www.canterburyfarmersmarket.co.nz/ http://www.riccartonhouse.co.nz/

North Canterbury Comforts

Yesterday I had the pleasure of spending the day at Claremont Country Estate, in Waipara Gorge, one hour north of Christchurch. There, amid spectacular scenery, Richard and Rosie Goord have created a gorgeous intimate lodge in one of Canterbury’s notable country homesteads. Claremont, built in 1866 from hand cut limestone blocks quarried on the property, is listed with NZ Historic Places Trust (Cat.2). The Goords enlisted Christchurch architect, Stewart Ross to renovate and extend the property and today guests can sink into its sublime comforts, safe in the knowledge that their every whim will be catered to. Not surprisingly, highly regarded American hospitality critic, Andrew Harper named it his Grand Award Winner for New Zealand, 2008. With its wide, wisteria-clad verandahs, its big rooms and the hospitality of its hosts, it has a wonderful ‘homely’ feel to it – relaxed, friendly, easy; but best of all, the total silence (but for the bids) and the tranquillity. Life in the country - that’s the thing! I was very taken by the fact that, while I was there a blue heron landed on the chimney. Surely that must be a sign of good luck? http://www.claremont-estate.com/