Thursday, May 5, 2011

Beautiful Ruins

I know I've said it before - that I'm sick of photographing earthquake ruins - and I'll probably say it again before the year is out; but every so often I can't help myself. Quite apart from any personal need to make sense of the destruction that has occurred in Christchurch over the last six months since the earthquakes, sometimes I come up short at the sights before me. It might be a coming together of people in places, or the way the light falls across twisted debris, or an ominous sky forming a backdrop to a deserted street, or jagged ruins juxtaposed against surviving buildings - any one of the above reason enough for me to reach for my camera again.
I certainly felt drawn to the gnarled ruins of the Strategy building on Victoria Street recently - that's the four images above. A cloud-filled sky, a mountain of rubble, a surviving parking meter (how tenacious they've turned out to be) and the bent 'spire' on the Victoria Street clock tower. For me, there's something about homing in on the small details, the minutiae of these monstrous scenes, that makes them a little more comprehensible. It doesn't really matter how many times I pass by though, nor how many photographs I take, the sad fact remains that the Christchurch cityscape is irrevocably changed. I went by this site again yesterday and it's now a flat, empty, dirt-covered lot - not a sign of lingering rubble. And when I see that sort of progression, it feels like someone is 'whiting-out' large portions of my memory bit by bit, that my own sense of history is being tampered with somehow. The mind playing tricks.
I'm sure the owners of this house in Waltham Road thought someone was playing tricks with their minds too - especially if they were in the house when it collapsed like this on February 22. It's been well catalogued now but I felt the need to get my own photograph - for the record. It's been funny how photographs of the worst earthquake ruins have spread like wild-fire - how they've been 'beamed out' around the world via all media channels - television, newspapers, blogs, Twitter, Facebook, cellphones, emails. Yet none of that diminishes the shock, the incomprehension, the awe, of coming face-to-face with the actual location. I find myself - often - standing in front of a scene like this thinking about the people inside and how they must have felt in those horrifying few seconds when the earthquake struck. It's a little bewildering.
And this house, at Brighton Beach, twisted and turned, and torn off its feet - yet the owners (presumably), still quick-thinking enough to be advertising roof tiles for $3 each.
And this gigantic pile of ruins all that's left of a big house in Manchester Street - or was it Colombo?......I'm confused... so many of my landmarks, my city touchstones have gone. And to one side of all that mess, that broken history - one small, neat pile of bricks and a cluster of coloured plastic bowls. I want to know who put them there and why. Why they selected the bowls (and one copper pot) and not the nearby wardrobe, or the spilled-out books. And having so carefully saved the bowls, why did they walk away and leave them there? What drives people in these situations? How do they register and file away the realities of their torn-asunder lives?
At beautiful Cranmer Courts, many more homes have been broken apart. This would have to be one of Christchurch's finest Victorian Gothic buildings and I doubt there is a Christchurch resident who has seen it, who has been unmoved by its humbled facade. I'm not sure if this one is up for demolition, or if it is on the 'To Be Saved' list of heritage buildings. I hope for the latter, but even if it is, it will be a long long time before it stands proud again.
And here (below) - a mind-altering view of Colombo Street - one of the city's busiest thoroughfares now looking like a scene from a derelict movie set. And floral tributes on the barrier fences. I took these shots over Easter - on a fine, sunny day when hundreds of people were walking as far as they could into the city. It was the same everywhere - people would stop at the barrier fences and peer through the wire, the silence only broken by the clicking of cameras.
There were dozens of us at this particular fence.
There was no pushing, no shoving, no talking - just a 'communal silence.'
It wasn't hard to imagine what everyone else was thinking.
And words seemed out of place.
And so to the angel at the Cathedral of the Blessed Sacrament - so photographed now that she has spun almost a full circle and is looking out over the city, instead of into the cathedral as she did before the February 22nd earthquake. I'm not a religious person but it's hard not to gape at the wonder of it.

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

In the Loop

"Passing Time." It's not until I go into the city - or as close as one can get in these days of ruin and red zones - that I realise just how out-of-the-loop I have become. This not helped of course, by the fact that I'm closeted away writing another travel guide. I didn't even realise this new sculpture - "Passing Time" by Anton Parsons - had been installed in the Wilson's Reserve area of Christchurch Polytechnic Institute of Tecnology (CPIT). It was commissioned by the CPIT Foundation and the Christchurch City Council Public Art Advisory Group and was installed several weeks ago... or maybe even months ago? I like it. The numbers on the loop depict each year between 1906 (the founding of CPIT) and 2010.

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Barry's Provocative Unpublished Minutes - 128

"Harmonious Blacksmiths 1"
More from the studio of one of New Zealand's top printmakers.
Click on Cleavin in the label line below to see more from Barry Cleavin

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Barry's Provocative Unpublished Minutes - 127

"Global Terror"
A new work from one of New Zealand's leading printmakers.
For others in this long, continuing series click on Cleavin in the label line below.

Monday, April 25, 2011

Men at Work - When Duty Calls

On a day - Anzac Day - when we remember those soldiers who have died in battle for their country, I'd like to salute the long-suffering soldiers currently on duty in Christchurch, manning the cordons around the inner city's Red Zone - that battered and ruined inner city where lives were lost and futures ruined when the 6.3 earthquake struck on February 22nd.
[A justaposition I couldn't resist].
I've stopped and chatted with a number of them when I've been out cycling at all hours of the day and they're always friendly and keen to exchange a few light-hearted moments. And as winter sets in, it can't be fun.
Freezing cold nights and rain have sent them scurrying for cover in their tents, although on Saturday, when the sun was shining, most were out basking like lizards, moving occasionally to pose with sightseers.
What I like most though, is the way they've acquired old sofas and armchairs and little side tables to make their long hours on the cold, empty, broken streets a little more comfortable. And these two (above) were giving tiny Easter eggs to passing kids when I swung by. Seems to me, we should have been giving *them* the Easter eggs for their watchful eyes and patience on a call to duty that must be tedious and boring in the extreme.

Saturday, April 23, 2011

A Day at the Beach

I've photographed so much despair and ugliness lately, thanks to a focus on recording the Christchurch earthquake ruins, that it was something of a relief yesterday, to come upon this wonderful display of brightness and colour at Brighton Beach.
I was just one of a crowd of people who had gathered to watch.
I put kites in the same basket as fire watching - there's something quite mesmerising about it.
A joyfulness.
A freedom.
April. 2010, Ajr

Friday, April 22, 2011

City Scene - 20

Lambton Quay, Wellington A typical meshing of horizontal and vertical lines in Wellington's tightly packed central business district - a place where highrise closes out most of the skyline.

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

City Scene - 19

One of the many street sights in Christchurch that I'm now very grateful I've photographed - for so much has toppled asfter the September 4, 2010 and the February 22,2011 earthquakes - not to mention the rampant inner city demolitions that have followed. I took this shot on New Year's Eve 2009, in Manchester Street.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Green Glass

Glasses
All in a Row
Cafe Aborio, Puke Ariki
New Plymouth May 2010, Ajr

Saturday, April 9, 2011

A Canterbury Icon

This is Otahuna Lodge in the spring with its petticoat of yellow daffodils spread wide to welcome guests. Last spring, on September 4th, Otahuna sustained extensive damage following the 7.1 earthquake that shook the region. They closed the doors to their exclusive accommodation for several months while repairs were undertaken - and just as well, because that earthquake strengthening is credited with saving this iconic building when the even more devastating 6.3 earthquake struck on February 22nd. The lodge is once again closed for repairs, but is due to open in time for the New Zealand winter - very soon. Keep an eye on their website - www.otahuna.co.nz - for updated details because a stay in this divine 1895 mansion just 20-minutes out of the city, is a rare treat indeed. It's one of the grandest homesteads in the country and the level of craftsmanship and architectural detail is awe-inspiring.

Friday, April 8, 2011

Experiencing the French "Art de Vivre."

The Boutique Reception
The Lobby Lounge
All Images Courtesy of Sofitel Queenstown
Sofitel Queenstown Hotel & Spa opened in 2005 as the town's original 5-star hotel and after a $2-million upgrade in 2010, it's now looking sparklier and more sumptuous than ever. The whole ground floor has had a significant makeover and in addition to the classy new boutique check-in area, the Left Bank Cafe has opened its doors for breakfast and lunch in charming Parisian style. There's an antique Steinway piano in the foyer and Auckland designer, Stewart Harris of the award-winning design agency, Martin Hughes, had paid homage to Sofitel's French origins with a glamorous black on white scheme that's also associated with the fine fashion houses of Chanel and Dior.
Penthouse Suite Penthouse Lounge
Superior Suite
I've always been a fan of the Sofitel's elegant rooms.
There's an uncluttered calmness to them and the sensual, orchid-filled bathrooms (complete with LCD screens over the bathtub) are a perfect place to wind down after a day of Queenstown adventures.
Left Bank Cafe
Vie Restaurant
The other new addition, Left Bank Cafe, is named after that hallowed haunt of artists, writer and philosophers on the Seine. It's a smart sidewalk concept cafe that seats 70, part open French-kitchen and part parisian tea room in style. The walls feature 1930s-1950s art and the vintage butcher's table, window shutters and mosaic floor tiles were all shipped out from France. This is where you can start the day with a Moet & Chandon Champange breakfast, where you can sample the waffle and crepe menu, the breakfast buffet, or an a la carte menu. Lunch is equally tempting - roasted portabella mushrooms, Akaroa salmon risotte with parmesan and lemon or seared calamari to name a few. The in-house restaurant Vie takes over for dinner. Vie will be transformed this year as part of the second stage of the hotel's upgrade, which also includes the addition of a new bar, a private club lounge and a designer gymnasium.
Le Spa Steam Room
Le Spa Therapy Room
The new gymnasium will be the perfect partner for Le Spa - that gloriously indulgent, moody, suite of rooms that include cedar wood Jacuzzi, a traditional Hammam steam room, a Far infra red room and a range of Maori rituals and signature European massage and beauty treatments. Well why not? If you've come this far south, you deserve it.
Sofitel Queenstown Overlooking Duke Street
Sofitel Queenstown is New Zealand's only Sofitel Hotel.
And Sofitel is the only French luxury hotel brand with a presence on five continents, with 130 addresses in almost 40 countries. This equates to over 30,000 luxurious rooms worldwide.
It's plush all the way.
Treat yourself!
Let me make it easy for you - just click the email address below.

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Sightseeing in Australia - 7

When gold was discovered towards Bendigo and ballarat in the 1850s, Woodend became the main throughfare through the Black Forest. It sits half way between Melbourne and Bendigo and today has a population of around 3,200. Like many Victorian towns, it has some lovely historic buildings - this is one of my favourites - the gigantic Catholic Church that overlooks the rest of the town from a small rise. Woodend is a popular commuting town and every morning the train from Bendigo to Melbourne is filled with hundreds of Woodend residents, who work in the city. I took a shine to Castlemaine the very first time I visited. I was on a drive to Bendigo - on a day that hit 40 degrees and left me and exhausted melting, wreck - but I hit Castlemaine early, just as the shops were opening at 9am, before the heat reached its peak. Established in 1851 around 40km south of Bendigo, it quickly became a gold boom town. Today it has a population of around 7,000 and is home to the oldest continuously operating theatre in mainland Australia - the Theatre Royal (1856). I found an amazing household secondhand store here - more of a barn really - with the biggest collection of tools and light fittings I've ever seen.
Whenever I'm in Australia, I grab a car and head for the countryside. As much as I adore Australia's big cities, I also love discovering little towns and settlements that spread out from the larger centres. I can spend whole days just driving and stopping at will to take photographs. This was one stop I made at a tiny settlement called Greendale - little more than a pub, a general store, a speckling of farm houses and these old grain houses (?), which were for sale. I quite like the idea of a snazzy conversion but at 81km north west of Melbourne (in the shire of Moorabool) and a population of just 400 or so, I thought it might be stretching romanticism a little too far.
And speaking of Melbourne, this is the bright green entry to Ezard design store. I've walked the streets of Melbourne photographing for hours on end, more times than I can count and I never tire of it. Everything from the architecture, the people, street scenes, cafes and restaurants, signage, shop fronts, street art - you name and I'll probably have a photo of it. I fantasise about spending several months in Melbourne doing nothing more than this - and finally, later in 2011, I'll be one step closer to just that.

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